Brown Brothers Merlot 1998

By MICHELE CURTIS

Merlot has an image problem. This is a wine which wine writers often describe as 'approachable', 'soft and gentle', and even 'cuddly'.

(While shiraz comes out on top with 'gutsy', 'deep' and 'brooding'; cabernet is 'complex' and 'satisfying', and pinot gets 'sexy' and 'seductive'.)

Merlot deserves a new look and a much needed boost to its self-confidence, and Brown Brothers comes up with the goods with a wine that has a silky easiness, a hint of spice and even a little tannin to make this an aromatic, full-flavoured wine.

You can taste the suggestion of a subtle sour cherry perfume that is lively and fresh, and well-balanced.

Food choices are incredibly varied with a wine like this: good bratwurst sausages, a rich beef casserole or pork spare ribs marinated in soy and chilli - you name it and merlot will be there.

This merlot can go out into the world with its self-esteem restored; it can hold its head high on the wine shop floor alongside other notable releases.

But whatever you do, don't call it cuddly.

RRP $17.20
3.5 out of 5