Winery Feature: Coldstream Hills Wines, Yarra Valley, Victoria

With Paul Ippolito

Premium cool climate boutique Yarra Valley winery, Coldstream Hills have just released their latest wines – the 2006 Chardonnay, 2006 Pinot Noir, 2005 Merlot, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2001 Sparkling (Pinot Noir Chardonnay). I thought it was timely to take a look at this boutique winery that draws so much attention for its wines, quite deservedly and has been one of the leading lights in defining Australian premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noir over the past decade through successive vintages of both varietals that leave you wondering where can they take the wines to from here?

Coldstream Hills' current winemaker, Andrew Fleming continues the quest towards premium winemaking, in line with a journey that started in 1985 under the winery's founder James Halliday. Under the ownership of the Fosters Group, they still work together to craft consistent, well made wines that remain value for money and relatively affordable in spite of their high reputation. The conditions for the 2006 Coldstream Hills vintage were such that it was a low yielding one which featured a warm summer, a relatively good amount of rainfall and led to the earliest vintage on record commencing in February.  Here are my thoughts on a couple of the new releases.
 
Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2006
Lemony straw. Tight and elegant yet with quite intense nectarine and melon. Hints of citrine lemon and minerality follow, melded with integrated French oak. Complexity abounds from the aromas, evolving in layers over time. The alcohol is noticeable, quite distinct, alongside crisp and lively acidity. Tangy lemons, ripe peaches and toasty oak flow onto a long refined palate, lingering long with a crisp finish. As much as it was tight and elegant at the beginning, it is distinct, pronounced and Australian Chardonnay at the end. Very nice drinking now and it has a promising future. Try this with slow roasted pork fillets. Drink Now to 2013. About $27. 93/100.
 
Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2006
Burgundian in influence and character from the first pour yet Australian in varietal fruit are my initial observations. This wine is special.  Remarkably youthful, fresh and lively in aromas. A glorious violet purple resonating unbridled youth. Quite a powerful, complex and alluring nose. Gorgeous rich red cherries, spicy plums and fragrant violets. Gameyness, cinnamon and a hint of earthiness as secondary characters. Concentrated and focused in presentation. Lively acidity and subtle considered oak treatment. Soft in mouthfeel with delicious cherry and strawberry flavours. The fruit driven character of the wine is countenanced by its elegance and refinement in structure. There is good alcohol here yet it has a lovely balanced finish with a lingering aftertaste. Beautiful Pinot Noir drinking here folks. Shut your eyes with the glass in hand and you might imagine you were somewhere in France. Try this with Peking duck. Drink Now to 2021. About $29. 95/100.

For More Info Visit: www.coldstreamhills.com.au 

Read more of Paul Ippolito’s wine writing at www.paulippolito.com.au

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