Out Of The Bottle
With David Ellis Debbie Has Pinot Gris Climbing High Pinot
Gris that hails from France is not the easiest grape variety to grow in
Australia, but it’s found a home at Orange in NSW’s Central West where
it enjoys the region’s intense sunlight, mild clear days and very cool
nights. Senior Winemaker at Climbing Wines, Debbie Lauritz spent
some time working with Pinot Gris in Alsace and has a passion for the
variety that’s reflected in the exceptional 2008, a somewhat voluptuous
wine with beautifully concentrated zesty pear and apple flavours. It’s
certainly rewarded Debbie for the patience needed in the vineyard – a
lot more than usual pruning as well as bunch and shoot trimming – and
consumers who are turning in rapidly growing numbers to this varietal. “It’s
worth the effort,” Debbie says. “Because the older the vines become the
better they get, and with ours now 12 years old they have a
well-balanced canopy that results in less fruit, but much more
concentrated flavours.” Pay $21.99 and don’t look past enjoying with simple fish and chips or fried chicken and salad.
One For Lunch
In his constant search for the best parcels of Hunter Valley land for
creating wines of exceptional character and longevity, the legendary
Maurice O’Shea in 1945 came across a block of rich volcanic soil that
he planted to vines and named Rosehill Vineyard; he was able to develop
the vineyard with the backing of the McWilliam family, and today it is
one of the iconic Mount Pleasant stable of unique Hunter Valley
vineyards. A just-released 2004 Mount Pleasant Shiraz crafted
by Chief Winemaker, Phil Ryan is a grand tribute to the foresight of
Maurice O’Shea: it has dominant red berry fruit flavours complemented
by earthy characters and a lovely savoury palate. A good choice at
$33.99 to enjoy with roast duck, parsley mash potatoes and a green
peppercorn sauce.
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