Out Of The Bottle
With David Ellis Laira Stentiford’s Old Vine Shiraz & Katnook Estate Wines
When
British sea captain, Henry Stentiford decided to call it a day way back
in 1893, he didn’t settle in his homeland, but instead chose the colony
of South Australia which he’d taken a fancy to during his days at the
helm.
And again he surprised many by not settling in waterside
Adelaide Town, but going well inland to join the pioneering Coonawarra
Fruit Colony and electing to grow grapes on his 28ha there; he called
his block Laira after a favourite South Pacific barque that was once
famously rammed and sunk by another at Dunedin wharf in New Zealand
(and later refloated.)
Stentiford’s vineyard on the rich soils
of Coonawarra was ultimately bought by legendary “Patron of Coonawarra”
Eric Brand in 1950; Brand and his family set up the area’s first small
winery there in 1966 and crafted exceptional premium wines until the
family sold out to McWilliams in 1999.
One of the latter’s most
outstanding wines is their Brand’s Laira Stentiford’s Old Vine Shiraz
that’s made from fruit off the original vines planted 117 years ago by
the old Captain; the just-released 2006 is a powerful drop, yet while
huge on flavour still has an elegant palate of spicy, dark berry fruit
flavours, toasty cedar oak and a long finish showing fine and lingering
tannins.
Not cheap at $74.99 it’s certainly worth an investment
for a special occasion dinner – one that celebrity chef, Peter Howard
suggests could have as a centre-piece chargrilled sirloin steak,
braised eschallots and Maitre d’ butter. One For
LunchThe
Coonawarra Fruit Colony had been founded in 1891 by John Riddoch at
Katnook, and today’s Katnook Estate Wines has just released a 2009
Sauvignon Blanc made from fruit grown on the original Riddoch block.
Labelled
Katnook Founder’s Block it’s got full-on Sauvignon Blanc flavours and
at $18 is a great match with fresh South Australian crayfish – and will
have you feeling like you’re drinking a little bit of history,
particularly as John Riddoch’s original office is now Katnook Estate’s
Cellar Door.
Need a drink?
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