Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 14

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

Watershed "Awakening" Margaret River Chardonnay 2005
This is an impressive bit of winemaking by Cathy Spratt from this Western Australian winery that has caught my attention on a number of occasions recently with their well crafted and reasonably priced premium quality wines. This Chardonnay has been given "the works" treatment and it reflects in the finished product. Classic pure straw yellow in colour, it emits typically varietally peach, melon and fig aromas with French oak complexity in the background. Fresh lively acidity supports the fruit and also counterbalances with the oak, which integrates well with the other components of the wine to deliver seamless easy drinking through a creamy, soft and lingering palate. Very nice with lobster tails. Really good pricing for Margaret River chardonnay at around $32. Put this one on the winery watch list. Drink 2006-2012. 93/100.

iscover Something New

Mount Majura Vineyard Tempranillo 2005
Tempranillo is a Spanish grape varietal that is remarkably well suited to Australian wine growing conditions. It is one of the few new trendy red wine styles that I believe has the capacity to entrance the Aussie wine drinker. Savoury in style, underpinned by red fruit characters, medium bodied and well suited to food – Tempranillo is seemingly here to stay. Frank Van De Loo makes a very good one here from his Canberra vineyards. Black olive, earthy, cherry, raspberry, touch of liquorice and dried herbs, indeed this is a complex drop. Smooth and well rounded with a lingering finish. Try with chicken parmigiana. Drink 2006-2009. About $25. 89/100.

Put This Away For A While

Bremerton Reserve Cabernet 2002
Rebecca Wilson makes the wines from this Langhorne Creek South Australian winery that are well priced and represent consistently good value as well as quality. I'm reckon I'm not the only one who has cottoned onto these folks and their wine, as evidenced by the fact that this particular wine has sold out already at the cellar door. Gorgeously purply crimson with garnet red hues, the wine has matured very well and presents with an array of rich ripe black fruits on the nose. Ripe blackcurrants, opulent blackberry and plums all abound. This is underpinned with liquorice nuances and well integrated oak that melds all the elements of the wine very well indeed. No holes in the middle here just seamlessness in lingering flavours. Try this with veal parmigiana. Drink 2006- 2012. About $45. Look around your local fine wine outlet but be quick. 91/100.   

Celebrate Summer With This

Shelmerdine Heathcote Viognier 2006
Stephen Shelmerdine has crafted this really lovely Viognier and it is one of the better ones I have tasted this year. Lusciously pale straw. Aromatic with an array of apricots, honey, and lemon citrus all delivered with an underlay of minerality. Classy, fresh and vibrant. Soft and well rounded acidity with a lovely finish. Try it with Thai fish cakes. Drink 2006-2009. 90/100.

Treat Yourself

Meerea Park Terracotta Shiraz 2004
From the first pour into the glass there is no doubting this is pure Hunter Valley Shiraz. Not just any Hunter Shiraz, but from mature, unirrigated low cropped vines.  A gorgeous purple with garnet red hues, the wine exudes dark red cherries, blackberries and blackcurrants. It has a complexity of restrained earthy nature, leather, strong gamey elements and hints of black liquorice on the bouquet. Smooth soft succulent purity of red fruits on the palate, fine lingering tannins, balanced alcohol and seamless oak. It really drinks beautifully and demonstrates that this style of winemaking has a place in this country. Try this with Bangalow pork belly. Drink 2006-2019. $55 ish. 93/100.

Value Drinking

Fox Creek Red Baron Shiraz 2005
At about $17, I don’t know how these guys do it for the price. This is bargain quality red wine drinking. Young fresh and ripe fruit driven, it has lots of rich blackberries, ripe plums and deep red cherries on the nose. Really soft and well rounded on the palate, seamless oak with smooth lingering dark berry fruit flavours. Try it with steak diane. Drink 2006-2010. 91/100.

Stock Up For Christmas

Pol Gessner Brut Champagne
Quite a forward upfront bold bubbly lemony citrine and toasty nose. Effervescent, vibrant and intense. Refreshing, crisp and lively with a firm acidic backbone. The fruit characters are concentrated and potent and the finish is dry in style. One to drink with an array of cuisine in the lead up to Christmas. About $38. 88/100. 

Wine Rating Scale - Out Of 100 Points

98-100 – Exceptional – A truly world class wine
95-97 – Superb – A memorable drinking experience
91-94 – Excellent – A wonderful mix of a top wine at a decent price
88-90 - Very Good – Really well made wine that should impress
85-87 – Good – Honest everyday drinking

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, overseas and the Internet. He has spoken on ABC radio and writes a free monthly wine newsletter. Email him to subscribe..

About Paul Ippolito.