Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 20

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

Saltram Of Barossa Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Nigel Dolan is the winemaker, renown for his reds, Shiraz especially, but here is an example of Barossa Cabernet that will make you sit up and take notice. Rich bright purply crimson. Luscious, vibrant and evocative with seductive aromas. Stunning aromatics truly. Purely fruit driven in aroma profile. Think blackcurrants, plums, blackberry and liquorice along with milk chocolate. Deep rich and intense. Smooth and well rounded, fine tightly knit tannins and seamless oak. It slowly unwinds in the glass evolving all those typical Cabernet features with a long delicious finish. Drink to 2024. $26ish. 93/100.

Value For Money Drinking

Palandri Baldivis Estate Chardonnay 2005
This is an absolute bargain Western Australian Chardonnay. Lemony straw, it exudes classic peach melon characters along with figs, passionfruit and a touch of honey. It even has had some French oak treatment which comes through the aroma in quite a pronounced but not overwhelming manner. The persistent fruit characters of the wine carry through along with soft yet tangy acidity. It is seamless in mouthfeel and delicious to drink. Try it with roast pork. $12ish. Drink Now to 2008.91/100.

Spoil Yourself

Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2005
The Grey Label series is one of the upper level of labels of wines in the Wolf Blass range. This Shiraz comes from fruit grown in the McLaren Vale region of South Australia and emanates from the excellent 2005 vintage. High expectations therefore abound for it. Young fresh and vibrant, it oozes inky purple crimson colours. It is quite a big wine with a distinct earthiness, a richness as well as upfront black fruit aromas. Persistent obvious distinct and concentrated fruit ensues. A touch young and raw, but has all the hallmarks of a wine starting off on a long voyage. Dry yet ample bodied with an extended length with fine puckering grainy tannins. Spicy oak sentiments are there to support the fruit. Plums, liquorice and chocolate on the palate delivered in a rich juicy style. Try this with bbq beef ribs. Drink Now to 2025. $40ish. 93/100.

Cellar This One

d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2004
The Dead Arm Shiraz is d'Arenberg's flagship red and one of the better Shiraz on the market in Australia. Made from McLaren Vale grapes, the wine is a deep dark blackish purple crimson - still in its veritable youth. The aromas are classic, intense, spicy and fruit driven. Indeed a litany of blackberry, blueberry, spicy plums, pepper, liquorice and chocolate all emanate from the nose - complexity and intricacy abounds. Luscious, velvety and quite bold black fruits deliver on the palate and the oak is there, pronounced, yet integrated and not over bearing. The tannin structure is huge. Rich and opulent on the palate, it has a savoury dimension with black olives and forest floor truffles. A wine that opens up in the glass layer upon layer. This wine needs time, a fair bit of it. Treat it right and it will unwind beautifully for drinking over the next 15-20 years. Try this with oven roasted beef. Drink Now to 2024. $65ish. 94/100.

Let's Try Something Different

Water Wheel Vineyards "Memsie" Shiraz Cabernet Malbec 2005
This quality Bendigo producer keeps coming up with the goods in terms of very good wine at very good prices. This Shiraz dominant red blend is no exception. Deep dark blackish purple. Brooding and intoxicating in its aromas with dark black fruits abounding - blackberry, dark currants, liquorice, dark chocolate and a hint of dried herbs making for a savoury ample bodied style of red. Seamless oak, well crafted and blended delivering a smooth silky fine tannin laden finish.  Drink 2006-2012. Great value at $15ish. 89/100.

Made For Holiday Drinking

Penley Estate Chardonnay 2004
Kym Tolley makes very good red wine out of his Coonawarra winery, as you would expect him to. However he also makes a damn fine Chardonnay again out of this region. Real Chardonnay, fuller bodied and rich in style and presentation. Typically peach, melon and ripe figs in aroma and palate, along with good lively acidity. It lingers long with its fruit driven characters and judicious oak. A well made balanced wine that should please those who still enjoy oak and ripe fruit in their Chardonnay. Try this with lasagna. Drink now to 2010. $19ish. 90/100.

Good Red Drinking

Lillypilly Estate Gypsy Rose` 2006
It’s Sunday lunchtime, it’s hot and humid and I’m thirsty for a drink – something alcoholic but not anything over the top – light and easy are my requirements. In steps this Rose` from the Robert Fiumara stable of Lillypilly Estate wines from Riverina in South West NSW. Rob Fiumara in my books makes some of the best dessert wines in this country, but he also makes some pretty decent table wines as well. This Rose` for instance ain’t bad at all, indeed it’s really really good. Made in a dry style overall, the nose unmistakably gushes fruit - fresh, vibrant and ripe stuff at that. Strawberries, raspberries and watermelon abound. Well rounded and luscious in mouthfeel, it finishes in a savoury manner. Perfect with a smoked salmon and cold potato salad. Enough said, requirements fulfilled – back to the deck chair (for a siesta perhaps)!  Drink Now. $15ish. 90/100. 

Wine Rating Scale - Out Of 100 Points

98-100 – Exceptional – A truly world class wine
95-97 – Superb – A memorable drinking experience
91-94 – Excellent – A wonderful mix of a top wine at a decent price
88-90 - Very Good – Really well made wine that should impress
85-87 – Good – Honest everyday drinking

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, the internet and overseas. Read more of his work at www.paulippolito.com.au  for all your wine needs.

About Paul Ippolito.