Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 23

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

D'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2004
This is D'Arenberg flagship red wine and one of the better Shiraz on the Australian market today. Made from McLaren Vale grape stock, it is deep blackish dark crimson purple and still in its veritable youth. The aromas are classic, spicy, varietal and fruit driven. Indeed a litany of blackberry, spicy plum, blueberry, pepper and liquorice abounds and emanates from the nose. Luscious, velvety and quite upfront black fruits deliver on the palate. The oak is also there, pronounced, not over bearing and integrated with an accompanying big tannin structure. Rich and opulent on the palate, it has a savoury dimension with black olives and forest floor truffles. This is a wine that needs time and opens up in layers. Treat it well, give it time and this wine will have a very promising future. Try this with oven roasted beef.
Drink Now to 2024.  $65ish. 94/100.

Value For Money Drinking

Tatachilla McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
I am quite partial to a Tatachilla red. The brand offers good quality, consistency and reliability and a high standard of red winemaking especially when it comes to its Shiraz. This Cabernet is a red garnet deep lipstick red colour. Blackcurrants, earthiness, peppery spice, aniseed, cedar, allspice, tealeaf, mulberry and menthol all from a complex nose. Savoury in style with a long finish of black fruits. Soft fine grainy tannins and mocha oak as well. A classic Cabernet from a region not generally renown for it.
Drink Now to 2013. $20ish. 89/100.

Spoil Yourself

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2001
This is a stunning Semillon. It has all the goods - age, complexity and popular drinking appeal. The sticking point is that it is Semillon, so that you the wine loving consumer will quite probably shun it. And at about $45, it is at the premium end of the market (deservedly) and unfortunately you will probably also further shun it for this reason. But seriously, in the look and learn stakes, this is very serious Hunter Semillon, at its best - made with excellent grape stock, given the winemaking works full treatment and released at a time when it has started to blossom and show its full potential both as a wine varietal but also as a regional style. I thoroughly enjoyed this wine and could waffle on with meaningless descriptors such as citrine influenced, lovely lemons and lime, toasty and honeyed characters yadda, yadda, yadda - but I won't. Seriously this is top shelf Semillon - go on treat yourself and impress someone special. Try it with a seafood platter.
Drink 2006-2011. $45ish. 95/100.

Cellar This For A While

Tim Adams Reserve Tempranillo 2005
I admit that I’m a bit of a Tempranillo sceptic. Yes it is the vogue alternative red varietal and yes it appears one of the better more suited ones to the Australian wine market, but a bit like the Pinot Gris/ Grigio phenomena, I am not entirely sure that I am fully on the team yet so to speak. Even when Tim Adams gave me a sneak preview at this Tempranillo after vintage a while back, I wasn’t entirely sure. Well now this has finally made it into the bottle I must say I am impressed, very impressed indeed. Rich succulent youthful inky purple glass staining upon pouring. Luxuriant, seamless and indulgent were my first remarks. The ripe pure velvety fruit is mind blowing. Spicy plums, sour cherries, an element of earthiness, black olives, aniseed, mocha oak and allspice, it has complexity and gravitas. The purity of fruit just gets you in. Soft velvety and delicious on the palate it is seamless drinking for a fruit driven yet also savoury style of wine. A few more Tempranillo like this and I will be well and truly on the Spanish varietal team! Try this with grilled chorizos.
Drink Now to 2012. $35ish. 93/100.

Let's Try Something Different

Bremerton Verdelho 2006
Bremerton produces their wine out of Langhorne Creek in South Australia, an underrated wine region in my opinion. Their winemaker Rebecca Willson makes very good value for money wines which are consistent in quality and made to style. Verdelho is predominantly a Western Australian and Hunter Valley grown variety, so coming from this end of the world, it makes for an interesting change. Plenty of ripe fresh citrus fruit character emanates with lemons, limes and grapefruit abounding. Quite crisp acidity with fresh full citrus flavours in the mouthfeel. This wine epitomises Summertime drinking, what's left of it. Try it with crab salad.
Drink Now. $18 ish. 89/100.

Made For Celebratory Drinking

Pirramimma Sparkling Chardonnay 2006
Better known for their high quality McLaren Vale reds, here is a unique sparkling wine from Pirramimma made purely of Chardonnay grapes. It is vibrant fresh and lively and oozes classic peach melon nuances on the nose with citrus overtones. Quite upfront on the aroma front, but gentile and soft on the palate with a fine bead and a lingering citrus length of finish making it quite delicious to savour. Try this with oysters mornay.
Drink Now. $15ish. 88/100.

Nice Red Drinking

Five Oaks Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005
This boutique family owned Yarra Valley winery is located on the southern side of the Yarra Valley in Victoria on 3 hectares of vineyards which were planted in 1978. Judy and Wally Zuk bought the vineyard and winery in 1995 and re-named it Five Oaks, after the five oak trees that grace the estate. Wally Zuk is the winemaker and this red blend is made from fruit grown on the estate vineyard. Deep dark purple crimson in colour. Aromatic and luscious, it exudes blackcurrants, spicy plum, and a hint of allspice, black pepper as well as having classic cedary, cigar box and coffee oak nuances. Soft velvety smooth and seamless on the finish. Well integrated, the alcohol is in sync and it is also well blended. A very smart and classy wine. Try it with penne in a tomato and chorizo sauce.
Drink Now to 2012. $20ish. 91/100.

Wine Rating Scale - Out Of 100 Points

98-100 – Exceptional – A truly world class wine
95-97 – Superb – A memorable drinking experience
91-94 – Excellent – A wonderful mix of a top wine at a decent price
88-90 - Very Good – Really well made wine that should impress
85-87 – Good – Honest everyday drinking

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, the internet and overseas. Read more of his work at www.paulippolito.com.au

About Paul Ippolito.