Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 26

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

De Bortoli Yarra Valley Shiraz Viognier 2005

Purple crimson exhibiting its veritable youth, the wine puts forth its cherry, blueberry, blackberry and plum fruit characters well. Hints of spice with light black pepper underlie the fruit characters, along with red earth and liquorice. The Viognier is seemingly indiscernible other than providing elegance to the wine’s overall structure. Yet it also retains its fresh vibrancy and also its good lively black fruit flavours  – seamlessly presented on the finish with firm yet fine tannins, touches of quite pronounced mocha oak and again that elegance in style. Try it with a lamb roast.
Drink Now to 2015. About $35. 92/100.  

Go On - Spoil Yourself

Dowie Doole Merlot 2005

Made grapes from the McLaren Vale region in South Australia, this is a ripe well developed and easy drinking varietal Merlot. Crimson red in colour – gorgeously so. Spicy plums, blackberries, red cherries and rhubarb aromas emanate. An alluring nose that just drags you in for an early taste. Good alcohol, indiscernible oak and ripe tannins follow.  Luscious black fruits and medium bodied in style with a long finish. Very gluggable. Try it with marinated bbq pork ribs.
Drink now to 2009. About $18. 90/100.

Bargain Buying

Capercaillie The Cuillin Chardonnay 2006

This is classic Hunter Valley Chardonnay. Considered in composition – balanced, quite seamless from aroma profile to its lingering finish. Sumptuous peach and melon characters, judicious oak, just beautifully integrated. Hints of spice – nutmeg and essences of citrus lemon, a touch of honeysuckle, stone fruit all make for a varietal Hunter Chardonnay. Spicy yet restrained oak on the finish, well structured with lively acidity. A beautiful drinking wine with a deliciousness that has you craving for more. Try it with marinated chicken breast fillets, slow roasted on the bbq.
Drink Now to 2012. About $21. 95/100

Let's Try Something Different

Tempus Two Pewter Label Zinfandel 2005

From this notable Hunter Valley producer comes this gorgeously purple red Zinfandel. Indeed an inky purple at that. Youthful, vibrant and stunningly concentrated and strong. Upfront liquorice, more liquorice, red earth, raspberry, red cherries, forest floor, roast meats and tar all abound from the glass. Complex to say the least. Crafted by winemaker Liz Jackson this is an ample bodied wine, spicy and full of ripe black fruit. Silky fine tannins accompany pronounced yet integrated oak. Not a wine for the faint hearted. If you like your reds big and fancy something different, this may be worth a try. Try with beef casserole.
Drink Now to 2020. About $30. 90/100.  

Nice White Drinking

Richmond Grove Watervale Limited Release Riesling 2006

There is little doubt that the Watervale district of the Clare Valley in South Australia has turned out and continues to produce some stunning examples of Australian Riesling. I tasted this particular wine in October last year and preferred its 2005 and 2002 brothers more to this one at the time – vaguely I remember thinking it was a bit young, tight and austere. I won’t entertain you with the “this year is better than that vintage” banter that us passionate wine aficionados love to become embroiled in but I must say on second tasting this is mighty better than before. Put it down to bottle age, my ever changing palate or just me having a good wine tasting day or else a pretty lousy recollection on my part of last time I tasted it – or all of these factors. Anyway this is excellent Riesling – with resplendent aromas – all lime, lime, lime and a touch of lemon, a hint of pear underpinned by some minerally characters and lovely fresh acidity. Elegant yet also a touch forward on the nose as well as with its creamy lightly rich palate full of citrine flavour. Lovely drinking, delicious in fact. Try it with grilled octopus.
Drink Now to 2026.  About $19. 91/100.

Nice Red Drinking

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

If someone asked me to show them a representative Cabernet Sauvignon from the Coonawarra region, this would be one of them. In the consistency and quality stakes as well as for its cellaring capacity and also to be found discounted quite widely at an affordable price, this one comes recommended by me. Young and typically purply crimson, this is quite upfront and aromatic. Black fruits – blackcurrant, blackberries as well as cedary oak and the classic mint features emanate from a nose that takes a little bit to unwind fully. When it does it comes across as an ample bodied red of substance with a well balanced nature and it has a nice drinkability. Blackcurrants linger long in the finish. Fine yet assertive tannins along with discernable oak, make for a wine with good cellaring prospects. I enjoyed this red as it was an honest yet substantial red. Try it with char grilled beef.

Wine Rating Scale - Out Of 100 Points

98-100 – Exceptional – A truly world class wine
95-97 – Superb – A memorable drinking experience
91-94 – Excellent – A wonderful mix of a top wine at a decent price
88-90 - Very Good – Really well made wine that should impress
85-87 – Good – Honest everyday drinking

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, the internet and overseas. Read more of his work at www.paulippolito.com.au

About Paul Ippolito.