Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 28

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

Mitolo Wines – 2005 Red Wine Range

When you take a close look at how the Mitolo story has fared so far and then taste their wines, it is clear that the Mitolo brand is about commitment and quality.

Mitolo Wines are a South Australian boutique wine producer, established in 1999, with vineyards in the McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley. Mitolo is the wine child of Frank and Simone Mitolo who from day one have had a clear and meticulous focus of making individualistic high quality Australian wines.

With the Mitolo family’s Italian wine blood spanning three generations, the inspiration for Frank Mitolo in his quest for premium Australian winemaking was always there, even from when the first Mitolo wine came out, the G.A.M (named after the first initials of each of the Mitolo Children's first names - Gemma, Alexander and Marco), a McLaren Vale Shiraz, created in 2000. The recognition and success that has followed continues to validate this quest. 

The addition of Ben Glaetzer to the Mitolo stable in 2001 as winemaker and a business partner, has also had something to do which this success story. Ben Glaetzer’s winemaking creativity has served to galvanise Frank and Simone Mitolo's winemaking ambitions. 

The Mitolo's ability to strategically source grapes from a number of unique vineyard and complementary locations throughout the McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley regions of South Australia has worked to their advantage and provided a unique opportunity for Ben Glaetzer to craft distinctive wines. Mitolo is therefore well sourced with grapes that allow it to produce a range of red wines reflective of various terroir throughout the regions.

For the Mitolos and Glaetzer, the Mitolo Wines winemaking has been all about trying to achieve a high level of purity of particularity through varietal expression in their wines, to create a connection to their unique place of origin, ensuring their wines have an elegance through their overall structure as well as showing how time unleashes their potential whilst also providing the wine consumer with a high degree of drinkability from their release dates.

Here's my take on some of their latest 2005 premium red releases which incidentally could have been released last year but for the view that the extra time in the bottle would reap even greater rewards for their quality; 

Mitolo Savitar McLaren Vale Shiraz 2005

Deep dark purple. Inky glass staining purple. Black fruits dominate with blackcurrants, blueberries and plums. Quite upfront and intense yet with a savoury dimension of black olives and earthiness. Good oak, quite firm reflecting some coffee and cedary nuances – the alcohol is also there but in sync with the other elements of the wine. Glorious plum pudding flavours on a lingering palate. Good varietal McLaren Vale Shiraz. A big yet also complex red with a fine future ahead of it. Try it with oven roasted lamb shanks.

Drink Now to 2020. About $70. 93/100. 
 
Mitolo Reiver Barossa Valley Shiraz 2005

Deep dark blackish purple. Stunning aromatics here especially the plum, blackberry and raspberry characters. Intensely fruit driven in aroma profile again with a savoury character to it. Indeed hints of game, tomato vine and black liquorice nuances follow. The palate in turn rewards with juicy roast meat and velvety blackberry flavours. Seamless oak integration as well and smooth ripe tannins play their supporting role. Beautiful indeed stunning red wine drinking and a classic Barossa Shiraz. Try this with slow cooked beef.

Drink Now to 2025. About $55. 95/100.


Mitolo G.A.M McLaren Vale Shiraz 2005

Dark deep blackish purple. Intense and spicy. Lashings of raspberry, blackberry and Turkish delight aromas flow as the wine opens up before you. Slowly evolving and revealing in layers of complexity. Medium bodied, ultra fine tannins and almost indiscernible mocha silky oak. Quite seamless drinking with an abundance of plums, blackberries and black liquorice on the finish. Try this with veal parmigiana.

Drink to 2015. About $55. 92/100.

Wine Rating Scale - Out Of 100 Points

98-100 – Exceptional – A truly world class wine
95-97 – Superb – A memorable drinking experience
91-94 – Excellent – A wonderful mix of a top wine at a decent price
88-90 - Very Good – Really well made wine that should impress
85-87 – Good – Honest everyday drinking

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, the internet and overseas. Read more of his work at www.paulippolito.com.au

About Paul Ippolito.