Paul Ippolito Talks Cool Weather Reds

With Paul Ippolito

There is enough cool tinge in the air for wine writer Paul Ippolito to be actively hunting out the reds from his stash of wines and for the tasting bench to become awash in a metaphoric sea of red, in anticipation of wine matching with some serious cool weather cooking such as winter stews, slow roasted casseroles, Sunday roasts and a plethora of other comfort food dishes. Bring it on – he says (albeit it is that tad more coolish when he dips his toes into the water for his Sunday morning surf!).

De Iuliis Limited Release Shiraz 2006

Fresh and vibrant. A touch youthful with red earth hints and black liquorice coming from the aromas. Blueberries, blackberries and plums also stand forward in a luscious fruit focused manner. An elegant soft red wine with fine assertive tannins and a very good future. The oak is there, seamless and well integrated. It lingers long and provides a delicious mouthful of red and black fruits. Try it with spicy gourmet meatballs.

Drink to 2018. About $40. 93/100 – Excellent.
 
Rutherglen Estates Grenache Shiraz 2007

Lush strawberries, raspberries and red cherries subsume the senses. Soft lively acidity supports the fruit beautifully. Long and smooth with a tad of alcohol. Red berries lingering on and on. Try this with a mezze`plate.

Drink Now. About $13. 87/100 – Good.

Grove Estate Wines Cellar Block Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2006

This red comes from the Hilltops region near Young in Southern Western NSW. This is an elegant well crafted well balanced red wine with just the right amount of Viognier. Grown by Brian Mullany and made by Tim Kirk of Clonakilla fame, the red oozes complex red and black fruits abounding with mulberries, spicy plums, red cherries, intense blackberries and luscious blueberries. Milk chocolate and a delicate earthiness also ensue. Good oak supports the fruit, fine quite assertive tannins follow. Really delicious drinking with a savoury edge to the finish.
 
Drink to 2016. About $30. 92/100 – Excellent.

Rookery “Rookery Red” Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Merlot 2004

A fresh and vibrant cool climate Kangaroo Island South Australian red. Blackberries, black cherries and plums abound. Lively and uplifted fruit – ripe and fragrant. Seamlessly put together, medium bodied in style, smooth, soft and well rounded in mouthfeel, integrated oak and smooth tannins. Long, delicious and moreish. Try this with marinated roast chicken.
 
Drink to 2011. About $30. 94/100 – Excellent.
 
Conte Estate Rock Hill Shiraz 2006
 
From this McLaren Vale producer comes this intense and deep red, with loads of spiciness and an edge of earthiness. Dark black fruits abound as well – blackberries, currants, plums with coffee mocha oak, quite forward yet with a smooth soft long finish with fine grainy tannins auguring a long future. Still in its infancy. And good value drinking. Try this with Irish stew.
 
Drink to 2018. About $18. 91/100 – Excellent.

Six Foot Six Geelong Pinot Noir 2006
 
Richard Austin of Austin’s Wines produces this good Pinot Noir from their Geelong vineyards. I like his wines because they are fruit driven, have balance and are reasonably priced, all of which can be challenges for cool climate Pinot Noir. This is full of fresh and uplifted strawberries, cherries and raspberries. Whilst there is a subtle delicacy to the ripe elements of the fruit which give it structure, this Pinot is balanced and fruit driven. A touch of earthiness and forest floor character gives it an edge as does a hint of gameyness. A food friendly value for money Pinot Noir ensues, one that will match a variety of cuisines such as Turkish and Asian yet won’t break the bank.

Drink Now. About $16. 91/100 – Excellent.

Lazy Ballerina Shiraz 2006

This is boutique McLaren Vale material crafted by winemaker James Hook. Ripe, rich smooth classy and sexy Shiraz all rolled into one. Pure succulent and luscious black fruits – luxuriant and seamlessly delivered. Good coffee mocha oak, hints of cedar along with ripe tannins. Well balanced in mouthfeel with an effortlessly long delicious palate delivery. A long future as well. Try it with lamb stew.

Drink to 2018. About $25. 94/100 – Excellent.

Kay Brothers Amery The Cuthbert Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Blackcurrants, blackberries, boysenberries, spicy plums and raspberries all ensue from the aromas, all deep and intense. Coffee oak with cigar box nuances follow, as does liquorice, aniseed and dried mixed herbs. This is fruit focused in one dimension and savoury in another. Well melded and drinking well now but with a long future to it. Try it with beef and mushroom pie.

Drink to 2018. About $45. 92/100 – Excellent.
 
Charles Melton Grains Of Paradise Shiraz 2005

This is one of two special wines created by Charlie Melton arising from the 2005 vintage. Special is the right word to describe this one as it is my type of drinking red wine. Balanced seamless medium to full bodied in composure, the wine is beautifully put together and really delivers in a special way. Soft succulent red and black fruits subsume the palate and provide a luscious rich mouthfeel, albeit with balance, structure and elegance. Classic chocolate and liquorice on the finish along with abundant red fruits. This may be a red of substance and gravitas, but it is also a classy one at that. Try it with Wagyu beef.

Drink to 2025. About $60. 95/100 – Superb.

Wine Rating Scale - Out Of 100 Points

98-100 – Exceptional – A truly world class wine
95-97 – Superb – A memorable drinking experience
91-94 – Excellent – A wonderful mix of a top wine at a decent price
88-90 – Very Good – Really well made wine that should impress
85-87 – Good – Honest everyday drinking

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, the internet and overseas. Read more of his work at www.paulippolito.com.au

About Paul Ippolito.