Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 7

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

Schild Estate Alma Schild Chardonnay 2005.
Really good Chardonnay can be a bit x-ey (now there’s a new word in the making). But seriously, you have to give it a bit of everything, the works in fact to ensure it is going to come up trumps on you. This one comes from all places, the Barossa and is the premium label of this very good boutique red wine producer. They needless to say can make a really good white as well. Classically varietal, expect all peach, melon and cashew oak and it delivers upon you a succulent luscious finish. A perfect food wine to have with slow roasted pork. I love a good Chardie and this just drinks superbly. About $38, well worth it, and its special occasion stuff to impress your favourite gal or guy. Drink 2006-2011. 93/100.  

Try A Boutique Producer

Joseph d’Elena Pinot Grigio 2006
Everyone is on the Italian varietal bandwagon at the moment from grape grower to wine drinker, all of which can lead to a bit of a hot/cold affair with this variety. You see the thing is, when Pinot Grigio is good, it’s very good, but when its not, well it isn’t an endearing or enjoyable experience. It helps in this case however that someone with good Italian heritage and stock has put this one together and is gutsy enough to stake his reputation on it by naming it after his daughter. Joe Grilli is a leading South Australian winemaker who isn’t afraid to experiment with alternative varietals, winemaking methods and has a really good and long track record at delivering the goods (have a try of his Colombard if you don’t believe me). This one really hits the mark. Delightful, youthful and fresh and vibrant, it has your typically gushy ripe pear aromas as well as a touch of spice, almonds and green apples. Mouthfillingly luscious in delivery, it’s one that you wouldn’t have any reservations naming after your daughter. Drink now with spaghetti con aglio e olio (garlic and olive oil – yes, it sounds and tastes better in Italian). About $28. 90/100.

Put This Away In Your Cellar

Charles Melton Cabernet Sauvignon 2003.
Charles Melton is one of the best artisan winemakers to come from the Barossa Valley. He excels at red wine making and this is evidenced at how well he makes Cabernet Sauvignon from an area obsessive over its Shiraz. Not that the Barossa doesn’t make good Cabernet generally, it just doesn’t credit itself with it the way it should. Deep dark brooding black fruits abound with an intense character, making it meaty and mouth filling to savour. Classic, dense and rich, this is a wine for the long haul. Drink 2006-2018. About $50. Try it with braised ox cheek. A wine that will impress the boss over dinner and that might get you that pay rise. 92/100.

Celebrate Spring With This

T’Gallant Moscato 2006
Here’s a tip for the next hip fashion in wine drinking – Moscato. The white equivalent to Rose`. Why because it suits our warm climate so well. How, well through its fragrant delicately lightly sweet spritzig character that invigorates rather than intoxicates. Emanating from this cool climate Morning Peninsula producer, this is a delightful wine that really deserves a try. At about $18, it won’t break the bank to allow you to try something unique and different. Enjoy it with some antipasto. 87/100.

Funky Drinking

D’Arenberg The Feral Fox Pinot Noir 2005.
I would be a tad nervous letting the people at D’Arenberg name my child. They have the most eclectic and idiosyncratic names for their wide ranging array of wines. The Feral Fox, albeit could be a suitable name for a recalcitrant three year old but is in this case, a very good Pinot from this acclaimed McLaren Vale producer. Alluring, vibrant, complex and fresh, this fruit driven style really delivers the goods in with a seamless satisfying drinking experience. Drink 2006-2010. Have it with a gourmet pizza, my local does a fantastic garlic prawn number. At $30, we again see quality Adelaide Hills Pinot drinking. 90/100.

Good Value Drinking

Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Brut
You shouldn’t drink and write. It leads to writers (and drinkers) spilling the stuff, waxing on more lyrically than usual, being more verbose than ever and the awarding of ridiculously high point (or low) scores. Ok, so don’t drink and write, you have been warned. Anyway, for the record I drank this last night and whilst I might have strayed into some writing vices after over imbibing had I written this up then, today I am again at my objective best. This is a crackerjack sparkling wine – although I recall it was last night too. Tight, elegant and really focused in its presentation it is drinking beautifully, all classically dry with gorgeous fruit characters and a length that extends endlessly – again I recall all that. Last night I would have rated it 95 points after the third glass I had, this morning a more objective yet still respectable 92 points. Who cares what points it scored – this is a damn fine bubbly from Kiwi land. At about $22, it is also damn good value and makes you think what else the Kiwi’s can excel at in light of their top Sauv Blanc, Pinot and now cracker bubbly.

Rating Scale - Points Out Of 100.

98-100 - Exceptional
95-97 - Superb
91-94 - Excellent
88-90 - Very Good 
85-87 - Good

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, overseas and the Internet. He has spoken on ABC radio and writes a free monthly wine newsletter. Email him to subscribe..

About Paul Ippolito.