Paul Ippolito Talks Wine: Volume 8

With Paul Ippolito

Something Special To Impress

Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2005
All you wine drinkers out there that are off their Chardonnay please take note - this may be the one that brings you back onto the team. The cool climate Chardonnay fruit from Tumbarumba in southern NSW is just spot on and has been beautifully crafted by this Hunter Valley producer who (for me at least) can seemingly do no wrong at the moment with its wines (and its restaurant, may I say). A beautifully elegant tightly knit wine with classic peach melon characters and flavours, really good oak integration and a smooth easy drinking creamy finish means it really is a wine that hits its straps. Yes, it costs about $28, but I can honestly say it's worth it. 91/100.

Discover Something New

Silverwood Estate Chardonnay 2005
Cool climate Chardonnay is a long time favourite of mine (can you tell) especially when the fruit ripeness is also there. You see elegance, structure and minerality in cool climate wines when coupled with good fruit character make for an each way bet of a Chardonnay – on one hand with finesse, the other with drinkability. This example comes from a family owned boutique operation that heralds from the Mornington Peninsula in Southern Victoria. Classic peach melon flavours, soft acidity with good oak makes this a Chardonnay to have with food such as linguine with crabmeat sauce. Around $25. 91/100.  

Put This Away In The Cellar

Penfolds Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling 2006
The Riesling Revival is here. It is if this wine has anything to do with it. Pure classic eminently drinkable top class Riesling. Gorgeously easy drinking citrus lime juice, with an every so light hint of fruit ripeness in sync perfectly with the soft acidity making it glide down the throat effortlessly – too much so. Perfect to quench your thirst and very good with your favourite Thai cuisine. Oh and the purists can cellar some of it as well. Drink 2006 – 2020. About $24. 94/100.  

Celebrate Spring With This

T’Gallant Moscato 2006
Here’s a tip for the next hip fashion in wine drinking – Moscato. The white equivalent to Rose`. Why because it suits our warm climate so well. How, well through its light fragrant delicately lightly sweet spritzig character that invigorates rather than intoxicates. Emanating from this cool climate Morning Peninsula producer, this is a delightful wine that really deserves a try. At about $18, it won’t break the bank to allow you to try something unique and different. Enjoy it with some antipasto. 87/100.

Treat Yourself

Lindauer Special Reserve Méthode Traditionelle
One of the hardest things about being a wine scribe is writing objectively about wine styles that you are not that keen on. For me, sparkling wine is one of those styles that I could frankly take it or leave it. Indeed place a decent Chardonnay alongside of some bubbly in front of me and I'm pretty predictable about which direction I would go. Now that's nothing personal to all you Champagne and sparkling wine drinkers out there but I just get my wine kicks somewhere else. Anyway, back to the job at hand, and may I say I really enjoyed this bubbly. It is indeed quite stunning, tight and elegant in its presentation. Sourced mainly from Pinot Noir grapes, it is quite focussed with tightly knit bubbles, toasty features and a biscuity nature, that carries through with a lovely finish - a moreish one at that. A few more glasses and I think a conversion could have occurred, but not quite yet. Anyway at about $22, this is damn fine drinking - so you bubbly heads - go forth and buy some! (and see, yes I can remain objective). 92/100.

Value Drinking

Meerea Park Hell Hole Semillon 2006
I could sit here until the cows come home espousing how good Hunter Valley Semillon is to you but I won't because I know most of you will have switched off as soon as the word Semillon has been mentioned. So I will write this tasting note to myself to remind me of how good this varietal is when it is done right. Lemony greeny straw. Juicy fresh light citrus lemons abound. Delicate and fragrant. Really good acidity, bracing and lingering with a crisp finish. Characteristically Semillon, light in alcohol, high in flavour. For those of you still reading, try this with oven baked trout fillets as it is a match made in heaven. $25. Cellar 2006-2018. 90/100. 

Rating Scale - Points Out Of 100.

98-100 - Exceptional
95-97 - Superb
91-94 - Excellent
88-90 - Very Good 
85-87 - Good

Paul Ippolito is a Sydney wine writer who writes for publications across Australia, overseas and the Internet. He has spoken on ABC radio and writes a free monthly wine newsletter. Email him to subscribe..

About Paul Ippolito.