Wine Feature: Penfolds Premium Wine Release Autumn 2007

With Paul Ippolito

Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2006
I have lost count of the number of excellent Chardonnay’s I’ve tasted of late emanating wholly or in part from the Tumbarumba region in cool climate Southern NSW. Wines of substance, class, refinement and elegance - Burgundian in influence – yet unmistakenably typically Australian in character. Certainly this is a region on par with Beechworth, the Yarra Valley, the Margaret River and the Adelaide Hills for ultra premium Australian Chardonnay. Indeed quite a build up you say – well, this is top shelf Chardonnay as far as I’m concerned. Lemony straw in colour. Vibrant, intense and complex. Stone fruits dominate at first then with a citrine influence, a touch of wild yeast like complexity, spicy French oak nuances along with a certain minerality. Seamlessly balanced with good fruit, lively supporting acidity, a subtle creaminess to the palate and a delicious long finish that has you craving for more. Try this with grilled barramundi fillets.

Drink Now to 2012. Around $40. 94/100.

Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2004
A South Australian multi regional blend for this Bin series that has over the years been one of my favourite Penfolds red styles. It epitomises ripe intense yet fresh and vibrant red wine drinking for me. Something that I am not afraid to open often – a house red in fact. But also a wine that I’m not afraid to cellar with confidence into the future. Youthful crimson purple, this has an intense ripe nose with blackberry and plums abounding. Spicy fruitcake, rich chocolate and liquorice, this is typical Shiraz Penfolds style. Pronounced oak, there but integrated with well developed rich ripe fruit as well as fresh acidity making it drinkable now but with the overall structure to cellar into the future. Have this with a rack of pork ribs.

Drink Now to 2019.  About $27.  93/100.

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2004
A whiff of the aromas emanating from this Shiraz results in instant Coonawarra recognition. Cool climate, stylish and elegant. Lean in structure, an interesting wine. Purple crimson red in colour. Blackcurrants, pepper, earth, menthol and spice on the nose. As savoury as fruit driven. Young, fresh and lively acidity supports the fruit. The oak is there but will meld into the future. Medium bodied, supple in mouthfeel and still young with a long finish. Try this with Moroccan keftas.

Drink Now to 2017. About $27. 91/100.

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2005
This has been released a year ahead along with the 2004 vintage of the same label. A vibrant crimson purple, it emits classic blackfruits and spicy plums. Upfront fruit on the nose but quite structured and leaner on the palate. The oak is there, this is still quite a young wine. Liquorice and aniseed on the finish, the fruit lingers long and with certain elegance. Ultra fine grainy tannins with a long lean to medium finish. I must admit I prefer the 04 vintage to the 05 of this label, which comes as a bit of a surprise to me but also bears testimony to the strength of the 04 red vintage overall. Try this with sirloin steak.

Drink Now to 2015. About $27. 90/100.

Penfolds Bin 138 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2005
This GSM red blend comes from old Barossa Valley low yielding grapes and is made influenced by a French Southern Rhone style. Predominantly Grenache, the easy drinking nature of the wine comes to the fore almost immediately. This is a ready to drink style, medium bodied, fruit driven and well blended. Rich deep, concentrated and intense fruit flavours emanate from the aromas – blackberry, blueberry, plums and raspberries abound. Not overly complex. A touch of warm alcohol from the fruit ripeness ensues. Integrated oak and fine tannins accompany the spicy fruit, lingering long on the finish. Try this with roast lamb.

Drink Now to 2010.  About $28. 91/100.

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2004
This is a long held favourite of mine. It brings out the old time wine buff in me as I recall cutting my vinous teeth on this label in the late 1980’s when I first started out interested in Australian wine buying it from Farmer Brothers down at Waterloo here in Sydney. Enough of the trip down memory lane. Having said that the traditional hallmarks of this wine – consistency and drinkability still doesn’t let us down today. The Cabernet Shiraz blend is another trip down memory lane and a reminder also of how good this blend is. Deep dark purple crimson red, this one is just starting to evolve. Ripe rich black fruits – blackcurrants, plums, raspberries and cherries emanate from a fruit driven nose. Deep, big rich and concentrated, ripe but not over done or out of kilt when it comes to alcohol. Well structured with discernable oak, ripe tannins and a long smooth finish – quite seamless in fact. Very nice drinking. Try it with grilled Italian sausages.

Drink Now to 2020. About $45. 94/100.

Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
A multi region and multi vineyard South Australian Cabernet and discernibly so from the first drop. A gorgeously deep dark crimson purple red. Aromatic black fruits – predominant blackcurrant and blackberry. Spicy oak with liquorice and aniseed, a hint of mintiness as well. Quite elegant in structure, blackcurrants and plums dominating on the back of the palate, lingering long. Fine tannins, quite noticeable yet integrated oak – drinking reasonably well now but should cellar well into the future.  Try this with Wagyu Beef.

Drink Now to 2019. Under $35. 92/100.

Read more of Paul Ippolito’s wine writing at www.paulippolito.com.au

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