The Riesling Crusade

With Paul Ippolito

The following is dedicated in the name of my favourite undervalued unappreciated grape varietal - Riesling. For those already not converts, I am here to preach to you the positive virtues of this wonder grape.

I have been saying this for a while now but lately I can actually start to see the seeds of a renaissance - a Riesling one, i.e. how it is going to be the next best thing (again) in the world of wine. I think it's glory days are very near, with the climate for such worthy recognition being just right here in Australia. If only all those Viogniers, Pinot Grigios, Pinot Gris, Arneis and Sauvignon Blanc's would take a backseat in the public eye for a moment.

Seriously though, never has there been a time where we have a combination of so much top quality wine made from the Riesling grape, at very respectable prices on the Australian market with our winemakers understanding and mastering the variety better than ever.

In the meantime, the marketers are wising up to its value and food friendly nature and wine writers and critics all around the country are quite rightly talking it up whilst recognising what a fair few of us have been saying for quite a while now; Riesling's halcyon days are near and it's time to convert a few more of you.

Who Is Riesling?

Let's start at the beginning. Overall, Riesling is an aromatic style of white wine with a distinctive fruit driven character. When it is young it displays a glorious range of colours ranging from watery white to straw to lemon yellow. As it ages, it generally develops deeper yellow and more golden colours.

Its aromas at a young age can range from more pronounced fruit driven, citrus or tropical fruit based or can be more subtle floral or steely, flinty or minerally. On the palate, the varietal generally has quite a crisp acid finish and quite defined flavours of lemon and lime citrussy or tropical fruit characters without any oak influence.

It is quite light to medium bodied in nature and is best enjoyed young and fresh although it does age beautifully. Oh, and it's cheaper than other varieties and therefore provides value for money.

Riesling is very capable of being cellared for extended periods, indeed many years, over which time it develops a spectrum of complex characters encapsulating elegancy, richness, as well as luscious honeyed characters. Aged Riesling is an acquired taste, one that supports the matching of it with food. Indeed not all Rieslings improve with age and those with upfront fruit and floral overtones tend to drink better with youth than age.

Some people argue that it is far better to drink youth zesty Rieslings than the aged honeyed kerosened ones, the latter characters which a lot of Rieslings acquire with age. There is little doubt that the 'drink now' fresh fruit driven vibrant zesty style of Riesling has become more consumer orientated and has led to a rise in its drinkability and in profile in Australia, especially when matched with the top quality seafood we have.

Riesling's Chequered Past

There is no doubt Riesling is fast regaining its popularity after a decline in demand over the past few decades. Riesling is however no new kid on the block or some trendy Johnny-come-lately grape style. It has its origins in Germany originating back many centuries, albeit in a stylistically different vein. Here in Australia it has a history of near 170 years, with its own chequered history and has endured an identity crisis over much of this time.

This identity crisis has centred upon much confusion over the use of the name "Riesling" which has over time been called Rhine Riesling, Hunter Riesling, Clare Riesling, Crouchen and Semillon. Confused? You are in good company!

However, once strict labelling laws were introduced here in 2001, the Riesling grape's naming right integrity was restored as it meant only Riesling could be called Riesling (yeh, I know don't say it). Hardly rocket science but a major step forward for the Riesling grape and wine. However the damage had taken its toll, manifesting itself over the years, decades in fact, alongside an affiliation (sometimes not undeservingly) with cheap, variable, sweet and bulk wine which even to this day continues to haunt its reputation as a fine wine varietal.

The Crusade Begins

The current rise in the varietal's popularity has been accompanied by an increase in the quality of its viticulture in Australian Riesling vineyards over the past ten to fifteen years. The Riesling grape undoubtedly thrives much better in the cooler regions of Australia such as the Clare Valley, Eden Valley, Adelaide Hills in South Australia as well as Tasmania and the Canberra district, which in my opinion are the main premium Riesling producing areas in Australia.

Vinicultural efforts particularly by winemaker stalwarts such as Jeffrey Grosset and Ken Helm, amongst others, have been at the forefront of advancing the varietals appeal through top quality winemaking methods as well as promoting it as varietal ambassadors at every opportunity both here and overseas, with much success.

Others, such as wineries like the Frankland Estate in Western Australia, have taken this even further and arguably to another level with its internationally renowned biennial Riesling Tasting showcasing our Rieslings alongside the world's best.

Rhetoric Into Reality

Enough guff, here's a selection of arguably some of Australia's finest as well as up and coming more fashionable Rieslings that I have amassed over recent months and tasted on your behalf, (thank you). These are the ones that scored over 90/100 and I must say the standard was exceptional. So what you get here is a mixture of aged classics with some young guns, all complete with a snapshot of my tasting notes for each of them.

Go and try one or two, pair them up with some good food - it does make a difference, especially when you are talking about a wine such as Riesling that has such a pronounced acid structure. I'm sure you won't be disappointed with these selections. They won't break the bank and you never know, soon, you too, may become a Riesling convert, off to spread the good news in your very own crusade!

Riesling Selections: (in alphabetical order)

• Arrowfield Simon Pemberton Pearce Simon's Riesling - $15 - watery white pale yellow - aromatic - young - fresh - vibrant - fruit driven yet minerally and initially restrained - apple and tropical fruit aromas - crisp acidity - sashimi - 5 years plus. 91/100.
  
  
• Austin's Barrabool Riesling 2004 - $15 - lemon yellow - aromatic - luscious - intense - lively, soft - obvious persistent fruit - lingering length - well balanced - tropical fruit, passion fruit and guavas, kiwifruit - smooth - mellow - 3-5 years, 93/100.
  
  
• Cardinham Riesling 2004 - $18 - glorious pale yellow - aromatic - floral - subtle nose - citrus of lemons and limes - touch of honeysuckle - soft acidity - balanced and smooth - baked herb perch - 3-5 years plus. 92/100.
  
  
• Helm Premium Riesling 2005 - $30 - brilliant pale straw - subtle, tight and elegant - fresh, crisp, marked and soft acidity - delicately balanced pure fruit - complex - floral yet some tropical fruit - seafood - 7-10 years. 94/100.
  
  
• Leo Buring Clare Valley Reserve Maturation Riesling 1999 - $25 - pale yellow - alluring - aromatic - luscious - intense - pure potent fruit - intense - well rounded - mouth filling - extended length - rich - extended length - well balanced - marmalade, honey , touch kero - orange blossom - blue vein cheese - now to 5-7 years. 94/100.
  
  
• Leo Buring Eden Valley Reserve Maturation Riesling 1999 - $25 - lemon yellow - yellow, complex - aromatic - luscious - lively soft - persistent fruit - medium dry - extended length - intricate, sophisticated - perfectly balanced - toffee, honey - 5 years plus. 93/100.
  
  
• Leo Buring Eden Valley Reserve Maturation Riesling 1997 - $25 - yellow, powerful, luscious, vibrant, - spicy - lively, soft - obvious and distinct - smooth - ample bodied - extended length - intricate - aged - toasty - honeysuckle - touch kero- 3 years plus. 91/100.
  
  
• Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling 2005 - $18 - brilliant - pale straw - alluring - lively - fresh - delicate fruit - green apple, lime - floral -pure - lean and dry style - lingering length - 7-8 years plus - match with creamy sauces. 90/100.
  
  
• Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling 2005 - $18- brilliant - pale straw - vibrant - clean - delicate pure fruit -dry and light - minerally, flinty, austere - green apple, lemon, orange - floral - veal scallopine - 5 - 7 years plus. 91/100.
  
  
• Leo Buring DW 117 Leonay Eden Valley Riesling 2005 - $33 - brilliant - pale straw - gorgeous - delicate persistent potent fruit - dry - lean - slight frangipani - lime - green apple - floral - soft acid - grapefruit - lobster - 10 years plus. 94/100.
  
  
• Mount Majura Riesling 2005 - $16 - brilliant - pale straw - alluring, luscious - lemon, lime, citrus - floral - light tropical fruit - young, fresh and lively, dry - lean - extended length - good acid - Thai - 5 - 7 plus years. 90/100.
  
  
• Panorama Riesling 2005 - $22 - brilliant - pale straw - vibrant, young - fresh, lively and crisp - delicate fruit - lean - medium length - minerally, steely, straw - floral, lime and citrus - refreshing - seafood - 7 years plus. 93/100.
  
  
• Penfolds Reserve Bin Eden Valley Riesling 2005 - $23 - water white - pale straw, aromatic - restrained and tight - elegant - touch of sweet -lean - subtle - straw - lemon - floral - dry, steely - light - seafood -5-7 years plus. 91/100.
  
  
• Stringybrae Riesling 2005 - $18 - pale yellow - complex - aromatic - lively and vibrant - persistent pure fruit - lingering length - well balanced - pure exotic gushy lime juice - floral - well rounded - smooth - seafood - very drinkable - 3-5 years plus. 94/100.
  
  
• Tim Adams Riesling 2005 - $17 - pale straw - green tinges - vibrant - tight and restrained - crisp yet delicate - very young - pure lean fruit - minerally and flinty - lemon, lime - citrus overtones - long aftertaste - Thai cuisine - 7-9 years plus. 93/100
  
  
• Wirra Wirra Hand Picked Riesling 2004 - $15 - pale yellow lemon - complex - balanced - distinct fruit - medium dry - long aftertaste - good balance - lemon, lime, touch kero, well rounded - soft acid - aged - toasty - honey - up to 5 years. 90/100.

Paul can be contacted by email at Paul_Ippolito@hotmail.com where you can also request to be placed on his mailing list for his wine newsletter.

About Paul Ippolito.