Wynns Coonawarra Estate - Flagship Wine Release 2006

With Paul Ippolito

Just released are two of the Wynns Coonawarra Estate brand’s flagship wines, which are widely recognised and much respected as wines that are form part of the “Wynns” heritage. 

They are rightly described as pinnacles of winemaking and both wines, the Riddoch and the Michael, are only made in vintage years when the grape quality of the respective Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are of exceptional quality. This is evidenced by the last vintages released of both, being the John Riddoch Cabernet in 1999 and the Michael Shiraz in 1998.

The creator of both prestige wines, Sue Hodder, Wynns Coonawarra chief winemaker and custodian of this important Australian wine brand is respected and very experienced. Roseworthy trained as well as being a wine show judge, she has had an illustrious career working for the likes of Penfolds, Seaview and Seppelt and have crafted wine in the Barossa Valley, Great Western and Margaret River regions of Australia as part of the wine journey that has taken her to this current role. 

At Wynns Coonawarra since 1993 and initially under the guiding vision of Coonawarra winemaking legend Peter Douglas, Hodder clearlyhas the credentials, ability and experience to create what we see and taste today.

The 2003 vintage releases are also somewhat of a watershed for the brand’s wines with the new releases according to Sue Hodder, epitomising elegance and refinement. Described by Hodder as near perfect, with fine examples of grape stock resulting from moderate temperatures during the growing season, the new releases of both wines promise much and with high expectations.

I recently got to taste the new releases and some past vintages of each and here are my thoughts;

John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon

1982 marked the first vintage of the Wynns Coonawarra Estate and it was released as being the definitive Coonawarra Cabernet. Named after Scottish pioneer John Riddoch, who planted Coonawarra's first vineyards in 1891 and who also completed the Estate’s three gable winery in 1896. Riddoch’s decision to plant grapes in Coonawarra was based on fertile red soil known as Terra Rossa. The focus then and since has been on making it a richer and concentrated wine than that of other regions, made in small quantities from the best available fruit from the Wynns wine estates. Hodder, this year, is seeking to add another dimension of complexity with added characters of elegance and refinement to the wines.

The New Release - Riddoch 2003
Emanating from an ideal growing season leading up to the 2003 vintage, with average temperatures and rainfall occurring in both winter and spring. There were also cool and dry conditions in January that promoted slow ripening conditions, which continued through to vintage time, producing fruit of very very good quality. Matured in 15 months in a combination of new, one and two year old French oak, the wine received quality treatment at every level.

Tasting: Deep dark purple crimson. Luscious and impressive. Vibrant and intense. Polished fruit with persistent pure and smooth characters. Deep, fragrant yet distinctive. Fruit driven concentrated flavours with cassis, blackberry and currants dominating with hints of ripe plum. Good fresh acidity supports the fruit. Mouth watering generous, delicious flavours linger long. The oak is remarkably well integrated leaving the fruit to step up to the mark. Overall a wine with an intricate complexity - still in its infancy. At least 8-10-12 years plus ahead of it. Superb and Outstanding - Paul Ippolito.

Riddoch 1996
Coming from one of the coolest vintages for a decade, a long dry autumn also allowed the requisite level of maturity to take place and delivered fruit with concentrated characters and with the wine then spending 26 months in new French oak.

Tasting: Deep dark purple crimson. Still youthful. Lusciously intense. Persistent pure fruit just flows. Distinctive deep fragrant fruit, quite concentrated in nature. Potency, intensity and typically varietal in a stylistic sense. Loads of blackberry, blackcurrant, mulberry and plum. A big length of finish ensues with well rounded sweet ripe fruit. A solid, muscular and yet well balanced wine.  Smoky roasted coffee mocha essences - integrated oak, adding to its drinkability. Velvety tannins with a softness ensuing. A good food wine. Try over 5-7 years plus. Outstanding - Paul Ippolito.

Riddoch 1988
From a warm summer in South Australia, the red wine grapes deemed to be of good quality.

Tasting: Mid dark brick red with a touch of purple. Complex in its aromas. Impressive, vibrant and intense at the same time. Distinctive deep concentrated fruit ensues. Think mulberry, leafy character, herbal overtones and mintiness. Coupled with fresh acidity still. Quite delicious. A long length with well integrated oak. Good balance between fruit, acidity and oak with silky smooth tannins. Up to 5 -7 years. One very good wine - Paul Ippolito.  

Riddoch 1982
Marking the first vintage of the Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon and emanating from a very good vintage in South Australia with a mild growing season which ended with a burst of warm weather.

Tasting: Brick red in colour. A complex yet vibrant red. Persistent, distinctive varietal fruit ensues. Blackcurrant, mulberry and plum with mint essences abound on the senses. What results is a serious, generous and robust wine with long length and integrated vanillin oak and cedary notes. Some coffee and caramel hints as well and a savoury touch to it. At least 5 plus years in it. Superb for its age - Paul Ippolito.

Michael Shiraz

Wynn’s best of vintage Shiraz has been established as one of the Coonawarra's most prestigious wines. Again only made in years when an exceptionally high standard is necessary to justify the label and when the best quality fruit is available. Originally made as a one off wine in 1955 from then winemaker and owner David Wynn, it was named after his youngest son, and the wine is widely regarded as an Australian wine-making legend. Revived in 1990 with its superb vintage, it has been produced since then, except in the vintage years of 1992 and 1995.

The New Release - Michael 2003
Moderate temperatures and rainfall at the right time, resulted in re-invigorated vines and allowing the fruit to develop good flavours whilst retaining acid with warmer weather in the critical ripening month ensured a successful vintage. Matured for 15 months in a combination of new and used French and American oak, what ensues is the best of vintage.

Tasting: Brilliantly purple crimson. Classy, fresh and vibrant. Polished fruit, pure and fragrant. Deep and concentrated potent fruit. Raspberry, mulberry and blackberry with hints of fruit spice. Lively yet soft acidity. Mouth watering flavours, deliciousness with integrated oak and a medium length of finish. Smooth silky fine well rounded tannins make the wine approachable in its youth. Still young, tight and elegant. Drinking 7 plus years - Paul Ippolito.

Michael 1994
Tasting: Dark purple crimson red. Complex and impressive. Tight and restrained. Still remarkably young. Intense with persistent and obvious fruit. Deep solid yet pure fruit flavours. Ripe blackberry, charred pluminess, meaty, sweaty and liquorice. Earthy, leather, chocolate and soy secondary characters. A lingering length. The oak is integrated with silky superfine powdery tannins. At least 4 -5 plus years. An excellent wine - Paul Ippolito.

Michael 1990
Tasting: Deep dense dark blackish purple. Powerful and complex. Polished fruit, persistent and distinctive. Blackberry, red cherry, eucalyptus, mint, meaty, aniseed, liquorice and chocolate - complex. Very serious and impressive. Ample sweet ripe fruit to balance the oak and acidity. A full bodied wine. Solid, thick and muscular. Substantial aftertaste. Seamless balance with totally integrated oak. Superfine and quite an assertive tannin structure. 7-9 years in it. Outstanding - Paul Ippolito.

Both new release wines are available widely at all fine wine outlets for approximately $75 each. The older vintages should be able to be sourced from fine wine merchants or through reputable auction houses.

Paul can be contacted by email at Paul_Ippolito@hotmail.com where you can also request to be placed on his mailing list for his wine newsletter.

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