Cape Palliser Lighthouse and Seal Colony

By Richard Moore

The views from the Cape Palliser Light house are quite stunning (top), while a seal smiles for the camera (above) (images courtesy of TikiTouring.co.nz)

Holidays and trips away are the stuff of both being there, seeing the sights and then the follow-up memories. Some places are ordinary, but somehow the experiences you have there will raise them in your recollections.

But on the rugged and wild Wairarapa Coast of New Zealand - about 1.5 hours north-east of New Zealand's capital Wellington - you can visit an area that is far from ordinary and will give you some truly wonderful memories to take home.

It is along the coastal road to Cape Palliser, a high-perched lighthouse that can give those willing to climb the 250 steps leading up to it magnificent views of not only towering cliffs and booming seas, but also the distant South Island and its mountains.

The weather will play a large part in the latter, but even in rain the views make the hike well worthwhile.

To get to the Cape Palliser lighthouse you can head out from the wine-country town of Martinborough where there are restaurants and vineyards aplenty. The local hotel is also warm and pleasant and the food is excellent.

You can turn off at one point to Lake Ferry, where they boast a local delicacy of whitebait fritters (small boneless fish done in batter), or continue along between the seas and the cliffs - making sure to watch out for landslides.

The road is very good but the closer you get to Cape Palliser the more having a 4x4 gives you a sense of confidence. There are some areas that you need to cross small waterways and fords and in a sedan you will need to be sensible and not approach them too fast.

The little fishing village of Ngawi is an interesting place to stop in for photos as the locals put out and retrieve their boats by using brightly coloured bulldozers including the aptly named bright pink Babe and lime green Kermit.

There is a small café off the main roadway that serves good coffee and snacks, but using the beachside public loo was stomach churning on the day we went through.

As we approached the hill on which the lighthouse stands I was aware there was a seal colony in the area, but didn't realise I had picked just that spot to stop the car for photos.

The seals are everywhere and make for some terrific close-up pictures of marvellous wildlife. Mind you, you do need to be careful and they can be grumpy if you get too close - understandably - so respect their feelings of safety and keep your distance. And don't get between them and their escape route to the sea, either.

You can get within five or so metres of them if you take it quietly and easily and watching them swimming is grin-releasing stuff. One of the really interesting things was seeing the oily brown spots they leave on the areas they rest on. This is nature up close and personal.

Back in the car and away around the bend you get to the rough carpark from which you begin your ascent to the lighthouse.

Okay, the pictures make it look hard going but, if you are reasonably fit, the climb is okay (even if your calves are still nagging you two days later!). At the pinnacle of the climb you have top views, a great spot with which to get photos of you and your travelling companions and a really nicely coloured structure to fill out your picture album.

Put aside about four hours for a return trip from Martinborough to Cape Palliser.

Links:
Cape Palliser Lighthouse - Wairarapa region