Perched on top of the often cloud covered Monte San Giuliano is the medieval town of
Erice. Erice is a popular summer tourist destination but it takes a
little bit of steely nerve to get there. At around 750 metres, and surrounded be
sheer cliff faces, the town has only three main entry and exit points; one via a
narrow meandering hairpin bend infested road, the other wider with less bends
(but watch out for buses which need the whole road to tackle a bend) and the
third via funicular.
The funicular (or cable car) has the major advantages of being the most
direct route to the top of Mt Erice (along a cable of just under four
kilometres), avoiding the stress of the winding roads and you can park your car
in Trapani, enjoying the scenery without having to watch for oncoming cars and
it's relatively cheap.
Looking SW to Trapani & the Islands of
Favignana & Lezano
Erice has a long and colourful history and has been occupied and influenced
by numerous cultures over the centuries; as far back as 6th century BC by the ancient
Greeks, followed at during the 4th century BC by the Carthaginians. In 245BC it came under
Roman control but not long thereafter it was abandoned and fell into decay.
After 831AD it came under Arabic influence and was renamed Gabal Hamid. In
the 12th century it was conquered by the Normans and renamed Monte San Giuliano.
They built the Castello di Venere (The Castle of Venus), the magnificent ruins
of which can still be seen today. During the Middle Ages many monasteries and
churches were built numerous of which still line Erice's ancient streets and
piazzas.
In 1934 it reacquired its ancient name of Erice.
Chiesa Matrice & Tower of King Frederick,
Erice
Erice is a smallish town of cobblestoned streets with a myriad of steps but
it doesn't take all that long, at a leisurely pace, to cover the town and take
in most of the attractions. Whether you come by car, bus or funicular you'll
start your tour from Chiesa Matrice (or Real Duomo) with is adjacent to Tower of
King Frederick (or Bell Tower).
The first thing to do on arrival is purchase the booklet "A Friendly Walk
Around Erice". This booklet is a great resource and guide and provides
invaluable information on the key points of interest and details on the history,
architecture, treasures and art works scattered about the town. It also
suggests walks to ensure you get to see it all in a comprehensive and efficient way.
Before starting your walk around spend some time exploring Chiesa Matrice and
climb the Tower of King Frederick. The church contains numerous 15th, 16th &
17th century treasures and artworks.
Cobblestoned Streets & Underpasses, Erice
After leaving Chiesa Matrice make your way north up Via Vittorio Emanuele to
Piazza Umberto. Be prepared for a climb up streets and steps as the town
ascends to its highest point along its northern boundary. Head towards Porta
Spada, the churches of St Orsola and St Antonio Abate and the Spanish
Quarter. The oldest and best preserved parts of the defensive walls (known as
the Cyclopic Walls) surrounding the town can be seen here. Lettering dating back
to the Phoenician period is still visible on the walls. The construction of
buildings in The Spanish Quarter to house a Spanish garrison was never
completed.
As you leave the Spanish Quarter and head south along the edge of the city
the views east are simply breath taking. Hope for a clear day because if it is
cloudy, and being above the clouds, your view will be completely obscured. If,
however, the goddess' Astarte, to whom the ancient Carthaginians had dedicated
Erice, or Aphrodite by the Greeks or Venus by the Romans, smile upon you, then
you will get the best of both the majestic views and the sense of floating above
the clouds as they roll by.
Castello di Venere (Venus Castle), Erice
On the south east corner of the town you'll discover some spectacular
architectural and engineering feats. Built in the 12th century by the Normans
on, what was believed to be Temples dedicated to various goddesses over the
ages, stands the Castle of Venus. Allow some time to walk through the ruins.
As you complete you circuit of the town, the boundaries of which are
essentially that of an equilateral triangle, you take in spectacular views out
over the Mediterranean Sea across Trapani and the Egadi Islands.
Erice is a must see stop if travelling within the north-east of Sicily. It
is located only 112k from Palermo or about 1½ hours by car and about 12k or
20 minutes (remember the winding climb up to the town) from Trapani.
Above the Clouds at Erice
