Hong Kong: The Great Chinese
Melting Pot
By Roderick
Eime
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Hong
Kong's colossal skyline is bordered by
hills on one side and the harbour on the other
(Photo: Roderick
Eime)
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The
vibrant and bustling
seaport of Hong Kong has enjoyed a prominent part in the grand opera of
Asia. Roderick Eime travelled to Hong Kong for a whirlwind tour of the
sights, sounds and smells of the former British colony and discovered a
bright and brassy city with a long and colourful history
The
dramatic events of the mid-19th Century created Hong Kong from a string
of minor fishing villages on the island that now bears its name. The
British, on an expansionist roll, obtained Hong Kong Island in 1841 and
then, in 1860, Kowloon on the adjacent mainland, after giving the
Chinese forces of the Qing Dynasty a sound hiding in the two Opium Wars.
Prior
to this, Macau had been the sole enclave for European settlement in
Asia, but the new colony soon overtook the Portuguese outpost as the
key regional centre for international commerce, banking and trade.
At
the end of the last century, Hong Kong was back in the news with the
historic handover of the British colony to the People’s Republic
of China.
Although many were nervous
about the
returning Communists, the transition was much less troublesome than
many imagined and Hong Kong residents still enjoy special economic and
political concessions.
The vast majority of Hong
Kong’s 7 million residents are Cantonese-speaking Chinese with
many arriving all the time from the mainland in search of work in the
‘Special Administrative Region’. The foreign
‘ex-pat’ population is high too with many Westerners from
the USA, Canada, Britain and Australia working mainly in the financial
sector. Other Asians include Thais, Filipinos, Vietnamese and
Indonesians.
Hong Kong opened an
ultra-modern new
international airport at Chek Lap Kok near Lantau just before the
handover, replacing the outdated but exciting Kai Tak airport in
Kowloon.
Before the new airport
opened, arriving
by air was a nervous affair and many will remember looking in on
Kowloon high-rise residents eating their evening meal as planes
approached low for landing.
Victoria Harbour still
enjoys a healthy reputation as a busy maritime port, serving both
commerce and leisure. It is quite common to see large luxury cruise
liners in port surrounded by smaller ferries, powerboats and cargo
barges.
Multi star vessels from
Silversea,
Princess, Star Cruises and P&O are regulars in port as well as
many
smaller vessels operating local waters.
Hong Kong is
currently subject to a great deal of redevelopment and beautification
but, despite a mixed feeling about the colonial past in some quarters,
a great deal of attention is being paid to preserving the heritage and
cultural legacy of previous generations.
Take your pick and mix the
old and new in a blend to your own liking.
Scenic Lan Tau
The
nearby island of Lan Tau is a distinct contrast to the hurly-burly of
Hong Kong and Kowloon. Steeped in recent and ancient history, it was
the site of Neolithic and Bronze Age (~2000BC) populations and was the
site of numerous strategic conflicts involving Chinese, Monguls,
Europeans and pirates from the 13th Century. Densely wooded, with
steep, scenic valleys, pleasant beaches (complete with lifeguards!) and
delightful bays, Lan Tau is dominated by the bronze 26 metre Tian Tan
Buddha (Giant Buddha), constructed in segments over three years
beginning in 1990.
Still on Lan Tau, be sure to
experience the brand new gondola lift opened as part Ngong Ping 360
tourism development that incorporates a themed village, dining,
shopping and great views.
Visitors to Lan Tau can
enjoy
a great range of quite adventurous walks to any of the peaks and
lookouts around the island. A well-located and relatively exclusive
beachfront resort has operated on the island for several years at Mong
Tung Wan and is a popular weekend escape for the better off Hong Kong
residents.
Opened amid great fanfare in
September 2005
is Hong Kong Disneyland. A joint project between Disney and the
government, it is built atop a massive land reclamation project over
the old, messy shipyard at Penny’s Bay and now employs around
5000 “cast members”. The US$1.8 billion construction
includes the theme park, two hotels and retail, dining and
entertainment facilities covering 1.26 kmē. The park consists of
four Disney “lands”; Main Street, U.S.A., Adventureland,
Fantasyland and Tomorrowland. Adventureland in Hong Kong Disneyland is
the biggest in all of Disney’s theme parks.
"Hong
Kong Disneyland stands before us as a living symbol of the creativity
and imagination that are the heart and soul of Disney," said the then
Disney CEO, Michael Eisner at the opening, "With a spirit of goodwill
and friendship, we invite the people of Hong Kong, China and all of
Asia to share in the magic, imagination and soaring spirit of Disney."
Shopping
Hong
Kong no longer enjoys a reputation for cheap electronic and consumer
goods, in fact some items are decidedly expensive. Nevertheless, you
can still enjoy an authentic and genuine Hong Kong shopping experience
and gather a pile of souvenirs and trinkets without breaking the bank.
For
a non-stop experience of local, urban Chinese lifestyles, look no
farther than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok - the heart of the Kowloon
Peninsula. Within these two neighbourhoods are side streets and alleys
that are home to one of Hong Kong's liveliest street spectacles. Here
is the bustling shopping hub of Hong Kong that everyone knows and
remembers. At night, the shops are open until nearly midnight and
haggling and browsing under the blaze of hundreds of neon lights is its
own experience. Walking through Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok is great fun.
You'll love the ambience and the great deals you can get on souvenirs,
clothing, electronic goods and much more.
Hong Kong's
authentic "Chinatown" District is the thriving Western, a hive of
shophouses, exotic markets and steep "ladder" lanes. This is where
modern Hong Kong started, mushrooming around Possession Street where
the victorious British first raised the Union Jack in 1841.
Also
don’t miss; Stanley Market for silk garments, sportswear, art and
Chinese costume jewellery, Edwardian Western Market for fabrics and
handicrafts, Bonham Strand West for medicinal herbs and ginseng and
Queen's Road West for birds’ nest soup.
Getting Around
Despite
Hong Kong’s high density and traffic chaos, people manage to get
around with a minimum of fuss. Drivers are generally tolerant and
forgiving, just don’t be in a hurry as traffic doesn’t
travel much faster than a brisk walk and there is always a minor jam
somewhere on your route. Taxis, buses and trams all ply the busy
roadways and can be useful for short trips around town, but Hong
Kong’s greatest people-mover is definitely the Mass Transit
Railway (MTR). Covering the Island, Kowloon, Lantau and the airport,
the MTR network is fast, comprehensive and reasonably priced and
conveniently avoids the turmoil in the streets above. Tip:
Airport
check-in counters available in city MTR terminal.
Must See and Must Do in Hong Kong – The New
and the Old
Scale Victoria Peak
High
above Hong Kong Island on the 'back of the Dragon', Victoria Peak is
Hong Kong's premier visitor attraction, providing magnificent harbour
and city views. Arriving late afternoon enables you to experience the
dazzling panorama of Hong Kong Island, the harbour, Kowloon and the
hills beyond. At night, the neon-dotted skyline is another signature
Hong Kong sight. The Peak also offers visitors an array of
entertainment, dining and shopping options.
Take the Peak Tram
The
best way to get to the top is via the Peak Tram, a funicular railway
that travels a steep 373m line up the lush mountainside. The tram first
operated in 1888, and once competed with sedan chairs as the most
popular way up. Try to get seats at the front of the tram on the
right-hand side for the best views on the journey skyward.
Explore the new Maritime Museum
Opened
in September 2005 in Stanley Plaza, this fascinating new complex was
funded by the maritime industry as a non-profit educational institution
and features extensive modern and ancient galleries of Chinese
seafaring history.
Go Green at the Wetland Park
The
Hong Kong Wetland Park comprises a 10,000m2 visitor centre, Wetland
Interactive World, and a 60-hectare Wetland Reserve. It has themed
exhibition galleries, a theatre, a souvenir shop, an indoor play area
(swamp adventure) and a resource centre. The huge galleries showcase
the importance of wetland on biodiversity, civilization and
conservation.
Star Ferry
Looking
something like a two-headed beluga whale, the ungainly and quaint Star
Ferries have been running across Victoria Harbour for over a century
and are another fondly maintained part of Hong Kong’s colonial
heritage.
Double Decker Tram
Almost
ignored by the HK residents as commonplace, the charming double-decker
electric trams are an important part of Hong Kong Island’s
history. The service is over one hundred years old and is still widely
patronised by nearly a quarter of a million of the island’s
commuters every day. Don’t ride in peak hour.
Sail the Duk Ling
Sail
Hong Kong's scenic harbour on board an authentic Chinese junk and enjoy
superb views of the city's impressive skyline. Originally owned and
manned by Chinese fishermen, the Duk Ling is typical of the junks that
once crisscrossed Hong Kong's waterways 150 years ago. The
painstakingly restored Duk Ling is the last authentic sailing junk in
Hong Kong.
Sip at Flagstaff House – Museum
of Tea Ware
Experience
the ancient art of the tea ceremony and learn all there is to know
about tea blends, brewing and serving from an authentic master. Built
in the 1840s, Flagstaff House originally served as the office and
residence of the Commander of the British Forces in Hong Kong. It was
converted to the Museum of Tea Ware in 1984.
Turbo Jet to Macau
If
you have an extended stay in Hong Kong, a day trip at least or a night
or two in Macau is a fascinating side trip. Explore the rich European
cultural history that predates Hong Kong by 300 years. There’s
wonderful 16th Century World Heritage architecture, great restaurants,
museums and, of course, the famous gambling. Macau is definitely
undergoing a huge growth spurt at the moment and enormous, Las
Vegas-style casinos, tourist attractions and plush hotels are being
built to cater for an anticipated rush of Asian tourists. 65kms (about
1 hour) by Turbo Jet Sea Express from the Shun Tak Centre and
you’re there.
Where to Eat:
The choice of
restaurants in Hong Kong is overwhelming, there’s over 9,000. You
can choose any number of ethnic flavours and standards from world-class
five star Michelin to delightful (but risky) street vendors. The
greatest variety is probably at Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon, whereas any
of the major hotel restaurants consistently outdo each other for
quality, awards and prestige. If someone else is paying, head to the
Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons and order the Sauteed Wagyu Beef.
Where to Stay
Five Star: Four
Seasons Hotel
A
staggering property. Set on a waterfront, overlooking Victoria Harbour
and the financial district, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong redefines
luxury and excellence in a city renowned for exceptional accommodation.
As a part of the prestigious International Finance Centre, the property
offers effortless links to Hong Kong Station, with the famed Star Ferry
almost at the door.
Otherwise: YMCA
International House Hong Kong
Situated
in Yaumatei area, YMCA International House Hong Kong has over 400
quality guest rooms and is easily accessed from the shopping arcades
and the commercial centres. With Mass Transit Railway Station right
outside the door, you can be in Tsimshatsui or Central in 15 minutes.
In-house restaurant and conference facilities.
Best Times To Go
The
skies are clear and the sun shines in October, November and most of
December. Hot weather and rain can make June to August sticky and
uncomfortable if you want to spend time outdoors. Take advantage of
hotel discounts outside of high seasons (March-April and
October-November). Unless you really need to, avoid travel during
Chinese New Year in late January and early February.
Electricity
220V with British and
European connectors
On Line Resources:
Guidebooks:
The author, Roderick Eime, is a Sydney-based travel writer and
photographer and visited Hong Kong as a guest of the Hong
Kong Tourism Board.
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