Fabulous Florence!

Words & photos by Allison O’Donoghue

Pitti Palazzo

Pitti Palazzo Gardens

Sculptures adorning the Pitti Palazzo

The Statue of David by Michelangelo

Fountain of Neptune

Florence is like an open–air museum that overtly flaunts its magnificent splendour. In the late 15th and early 16th centuries Brunelleschi and Michelangelo competed fiercely for financial approval of the Medici family, responsible for the Italian Renaissance and patrons of Botticelli, Raphael, Machiavelli, Cellini, Donatello, and of course, Leonardo da Vinci, to name a few. The Medici’s enjoyed a fearsome reputation as authoritarian aristocracy yet cultivated and facilitated the flourish of creativity and the discovery of genius.

Greatness surrounds you, as you walk the same streets as the gaints of architecture, art and culture, who helped create the magical beauty of fabulous Florence.

I am staying at an unassuming hotel on Via Toselli, conveniently located 20 minutes from the city centre. Hailing the #17 bus on Via Ponte Alle Mosse directly in front of the Bar Caffetteria Ritrovo, where I buy my bus tickets at 1.20pm (valid for 70 minutes) and takes me directly to the city. All bus tickets can be purchased at any Tabaccheria (tobacco) shops or café’s; bus drivers do not sell tickets, so be prepared.

I Began my adventure at the Piazza dell Duomo with the enormous Cathedral Duomo, Baptistery and Campanile. The Gothic style Duomo was built in the 13th century, made completely of marble with two magnificent doors, one created by Michelangelo and the other by Brunelleschi. No matter how many times you walk past this extraordinary building you will be in awe of it.

Brunelleschi’s devised and built the monumental Cupola (dome) that set the benchmark for all other domes around the world. If you are feeling energetic you can climb the 465 steps to the top of the tower for panoramic views of Florence. It is well worth the effort, as the view is simply stunning.

Florence has 470 museums all worth visiting but obviously not possible, unless you plan on staying awhile. My advise - do the classics. Go directly to the Uffizi Galleries – 6 Loggiato degli Uffizi, just off the Piazza dell Signoria where you can also obtain advance tickets for other galleries. It might be a bit more costly but worth sailing past the long hot queues directly into any of the inspiring museums.

The Uffizi Galleries are to Florence what the Louvre is to Paris or the MET to New York. The Uffizi is the principal museum of Florence. On two floors a block long, this 16th century building houses paintings, tapestries, sculptures and archaeological relics commissioned and collected by generations of the Medici family. The museum‘s undisputed highlights include Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Spring, and Leonardo’s Adoration of the Magi as well as works from Giotto, Cimabue, Perugino, Uccello, Fra Angelico, Raphael, Veronese, Tintoretto, Caravaggio, Durer, Rubens, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Canaletto and Guardi - just to name a few.

Not far from the Uffizi is the world famous Ponte Vecchio, an extraordinary bridge spanning the Arno River, full of beautiful jewellery shops. Once you have had your fill with the glorious view from the bridge or maxed out your credit card, cross the Ponte Vecchio until you reach the Palazzo Pitti at the Piazza dei Pitti. Another great gallery, and an absolute must see!

Give yourself plenty of time, as the Pitti Palazzo has many museums and State Apartments with the much-heralded exhibition of I Medici e le Scienze, an astonishing exhibition displaying magnificent treasures such as Galileo’s telescope and the book that put him under house arrest until his death.

Also worth a look is the exhibition of costumes throughout the ages that covers a complete wing of the Palazzo.

A wealthy Florentine banker, Luca Pitti built the Pitti Palazzo in the 15th century and it is massive. The Medici’s moved from the Palazzo Vecchio into the Pitti Palazzo and made it their private residence. There is speculation as to whether the Medici’s confiscated the magnificent Palazzo from the Pitti family. Nonetheless, it remained the Pitti Palazzo in name. Many of the Medici’s private belongings and jewels are displayed here as well as great works from artists such as Raphael, Caravaggio, Veronese, Titian, Fra Filippo Lippo, Reni and Bartolommeo. Then to top it off, a leisurely stroll around the beautiful gardens and vast grounds of the Giardino di Boboli and Giardino Bardini.

Pizza and gelateria bars are everywhere in Florence. After you’ve been to the Pitti Palace you will come across a very small pizza, cake and biscotti bar, stop immediately and choose a pizza at next to nothing for a slice, catering more for the locals than the tourists. Try the eggplant and artichoke pizza. Yummy! If you see local Italians frequenting cafes, bars and restaurants, then you know it has to be good.

The Piazza Della Signoria is an impressive piazza, an open-air museum surrounded by cafes, bars and restaurants with remarkable living statues; the artists stand dead still until someone throws money into the tin whereupon he/she moves. You can also have your portrait sketched by aspiring artists.

The Piazza Signoria is home to the enormous 15th century Neptune Fountain where a brass plaque in the pavement marks the spot where the mad monk, Savonarola was burnt at the stake in 1498. The Piazza Signoria houses great sculptures of Roman and Greek themes and where you can gaze upon the fake David. The original is in the Galleria dell ‘Accademia – 60 Via Ricasoli near San Marco Square.

Michelangelo took two years from 1502-1504 to sculpt his masterpiece. His studio is now a museum, the Museo del Bargello, opposite the Duomo. Michelangelo gained permission from the Grand Duke Cosimo de Medici to use an inferior slab of marble sitting idle in the Piazza to transform the marble into David. With many obstacles to overcome, Michelangelo produced a work of art that surpasses none, that forced his contemporaries and detractors to concede defeat.

Michelangleo’s David is still regarded as the most beautiful sculpture in the world and a marvel to behold. You cannot take photos of the real David. I saw people have their cameras and mobile phones confiscated for sneaking in a photo. Safer to buy a postcard at the shop on your way out.

Everywhere you look in Florence there are students both young and old with sketchpads or artists attempting to imitate the masters.

The exterior of the Opera di Santa Maria Del Fiore Novella is unassuming, however the interior of this church is covered with beautiful frescoes and the architecture is of colossal proportions.

Italy is hot in June, July and August so you would be forgiven for wearing singlets, shorts and thongs. However, you will not be allowed entry into any of the cathedrals or churches if you expose too much skin; security guards will block your entry. If you are lucky benevolent nuns may loan you a scarf. The Italians consider it utterly disrespectful to be semi clothed in a house of god.

The Opera Medicea Laurenziana San Lorenzo church, built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century is one of the many Medici chapels. Donatello adorns the church with numerous sculptures, however the highlight is Michelangelo’s Dawn and Dusk-Night and Day decorating the tombs of Lorenzo and Guiliano Medici. The enormous crypt is where most of the Medici family are buried. Thankfully the Medici’s did not understand the concept, ‘less is more’. Albeit, it is inevitable that modernity creeps in, but has not overwhelmed Florence nor detracted from its ancient beauty in any way.

There are many day trips to be had outside Florence. You can join a tour group to Pisa or explore the vineyards. I recommend catching the number 7 bus to Fiesole in the Florentine Hills to visit the ancient Roman remains, museum and amphitheatre, still in use today. Fiesole is said to be the oldest part of Florence where the Romans made their base. End your wonderful holiday watching the sun go down over Florence from a café ideally situated on the cliff-face. Florence is absolutely fabulous!