Sensational Siena

Words & photos By Allison O’Donoghue

Just 1½ hr train ride from Florence is the beautiful ancient city of Siena, founded by the Etruscans in 400-900 BC and is in my opinion, one of the most striking of the Tuscan cities.

The emblem embossed all over Siena is that of a she-wolf suckling two children, Romulus and Remus. According to legend, Senius the son of Remus founded Siena; legend has it that Romulus killed his brother Remus in a jealous rage and went on to create Rome. Albeit, the truth is Caesar Augustus invaded the Etruscan village and founded the town in AD 70, paperwork depicting this date can be found in the state library. Siena prospered by becoming a lending state and then exporting wool, now it is a stunning tourist attraction built on steep hills and surrounded by tall poplar trees with a residential population of 50,000.

The undeniable highlight of Siena is the 13th century Piazza Del Campo a brick lined fine-looking square and the site where chariot races were once held. Today, instead of chariots the square plays host to the annual horse race II Palio, akin to the Melbourne cup, where thousands of people find the best vantage point to witness this frenetic event while the winning jockey is lifted to rock star status until the next race to defend his crown. Get there at least 3 days early to watch the race trials, an event in itself and pick a contrada, colour of one of the 17 city districts to barrack for. The race is a chaotic and frantic event that is over in a split second - but festivities last from the 2nd of July until the 16th of August.

Magnificent buildings like the Municipal Palazzo, the Cathedral and Torre del Mangia bell tower looms over the graceful Palazzo Pubblico built in various stages and envelops the II Campo. The oval square or Field as it is known, was designed for civic events and ringed with cafés, restaurants, souvenir shops, churches and bars. This is the place to come to watch the passing parade of tourists and locals or dine out on a delicious traditional Italian meal. Inside the palazzo is the Museo Civic, open daily.

The Fonte Gaia is a glamorous rectangular marble fountain built for the horses, now tourists are welcome to refill their water bottles, except during the II Palio race where horses still have first preference. Take the stairs from II Campo and cross V. di Citta’ to get to Siena’s hilltop Duomo. Street directions are everywhere so it is virtually impossible to get lost.

It is amazing to watch cars traverse the narrow, steep winding roads of Siena, albeit the cars are all small eco friendly little machines that seem to defy gravity while parked on a definite lean.

The 13th century saw a building boom in Siena when the Santa Maria Cathedral, Opera del Duomo was completed and like all Italian churches, a sight to behold.  Massive, made of marble and opulently decorated with frescoes and mosaic floors, an the engineering feat to marvel, an enormous structure  built in trying conditions; stifling hot summers and freezing cold winters carrying marble up narrow roads and steep inclines via horse drawn carriage. The mind boggles.

To the right of the Duomo is the Museo dell’ Opera Della Metropolitana and houses the la Maesta’ de Duccio di Buoninsegna and other famous works of art.

Unfortunately, there are not many shaded areas in the cathedral square that surrounds the Duomo so be careful when sitting along the wall opposite as you take in the enormity of the building, up on high and out of sight are pigeons lined up to poop from a great height. I saw a few tears as children had to ditch their gelatos and I had to wash down my shirt while I was helped by fellow Aussie travelers.

As you take a leisurely stroll back to the train station you will pass myriad of jewelry stores and designer shops and you may happen upon markets selling the usual souvenir trinkets but if you’re lucky you will find a gem or two at the many antique stalls to tempt you.

If you want to get lost take a local bus ride around the city and check out the stunning ancient, old and modern architecture built into the hillside.

Add sensational Siena to your itinerary, only a day trip outside of Florence or a 3-hour train ride from Rome. You will not regret it.