Milano : Slow Shopping Movement

Words & photos by Allison O'Donoghue

Milano is renowned for its designer fashion, bags, shoes, food and furniture plus superb retail shopping but it has much more to offer than just the latest luxury wares, albeit shopping is a huge drawcard.

Pilgrims make the trip to see Leonardo Da Vinci; Last Supper located in the Cenacolo Vinciano Refectory to the left of the Gothic church of Chisea di Santa Maria Della Grazie. Since the phenomena of Dan Browns The Da Vinci Code, visitors beat a path to its door to see if Mary really is seated next to Jesus and low and behold she is. As a lapsed catholic I have to admit I have never noticed this until Dan kindly pointed out the obvious. The painting has seen better days, faded and chipping away, however you can still make out the colours and food on the table. Restoration is an ongoing slow process to ensure the original work is retained. Unfortunately, you cannot take a photo of this masterpiece, vigilant polizi guard the site with a vengeance. If you don’t want your mobile phone or camera confiscated then do not tempt fate, I suggest you buy a postcard at the gift shop on your way out or at the many souvenir shops dotted around the city.

Milan owes much of its artistic heritage to the medieval Visconti and Sforza families whose generations are still the leading aristocrats of Milan today, albeit with less power and control. With a residential population of over 1 million, Milan is one of the biggest cities outside of Rome and was once the capitol of the western side of the Roman Empire, now it is a cosmopolitan hive of activity.

For centuries the French, Spanish and Austrians once dominated its culture until the Romans kicked them out. Now the Italians run the show and have adopted the slow food and slow shopping mantra. Made in Italy means just that, you wont find a hidden Chinese label anywhere. Italians pride themselves on producing handmade, homespun designs and creative wares regardless of the cost, and to our gain. Products are made to perfection, with total care and devotion, not a mass-produced line in sight. If you want a tailored suit then it will take time, being the operative word.

As I strode through the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II arcade where every known designer has a shop, my eyes welled up at the price tags. Bring your credit card for that one off piece infinitely worth splurging, secure in the knowledge you will not bump into anyone wearing the same outfit.

The Piazza del Duomo is the geographical and spiritual centre of Milan home to one of the largest cathedrals in the world, the Duomo. Construction began in 1386 by Gian Galeazzo Visconti to inspire the Virgin Mary to bless his family for eternity, the work took centuries to complete. Napoleon grew impatient with the glacial progress and commanded its completion, which finally happened in 1809. Gaudi once visited Milan and was so inspired he modelled his cathedral in Barcelona on this magnificent Duomo, and the likeness is remarkable. However, be warned, you may not enter the house of the Lord half dressed regardless of the heat. Cover up any visible skin or be denied entry.

The Museo del Duomo displays archives of the construction of this extraordinary building. For the energetic, climb the hundreds of steps to the roof or take the elevator for panoramic views of the city and the Alps.

Like so many Italian cities Milan is a curious cocktail of renaissance architecture, with a strong tradition of family businesses and a unique shopping scene, defining its retail landscape. Not particularly great if you are a chain retailer. Many Italian cities are historically protected so it is not that easy to build a huge supermarket in the ancient city due to building constraints and limitations therefore developers find innovative ways of incorporating the old while merging the new to integrate the ancient architecture into the physical structure of the city. It blends and tends to be less intrusive.

People live, work and play in the city centre to savour a slower pedestrian pace of life, no flight to the suburbs where the malls are located, people want to be within the city walls for a more convenient traditional experience. With easy agreeable living, shopping in the city is as much a leisurely event as it is purposeful activity. It is a chance to check out what everyone is wearing and how they’re wearing it.

Businesses often stay in the family for generations that place great value on specialist techniques and craftsmanship over fast and convenient. Craft is important in Italy, incorporating the traditional with innovation while focusing on high-end premium markets.

La Perla lingerie established in the 1950’s by Anna Masotti, a corset maker for the well to do, set up a small workshop that slowly grew into a global brand, and is still run today by her granddaughter also named Anna Masotti. Specialising in handmade traditional techniques that have been passed down by generations of lace and lingerie makers, using the best fabrics available. Every garment is individually handcrafted.

La Perla, like many Italian companies buy into the slow movement concept, a trend that begun as a reaction to the throw away society of Western culture epitomised by fast food, which now includes slow shopping. So when you enter one of these stores expect good slow service where you are measured and tended to as if you were royalty. Unlike modern shopping today, you are lucky if the person behind the counter gives you a second look let alone serves you. They harrumph if you ask them to get another size while stripped down your underwear. Whereas in Italy they take time to attend to the customer and build relationships through the slow shopping movement. Italians believe that shopping is a personal experience where time is needed to touch the product, try it on and cultivate your own style. This philosophy helps to make Milan a staging ground for comfort and luxury goods around the world.

A cobbler founded Tods, another leading Italian brand specialising in handmade shoes, over a 100 years ago and now run by his grandson Diego Della Valle. Using the best leather and materials with cobblers who also have generations of their own families working in the factories. It’s like a religion.

Prada has been the epitome of luxury from the start, Mario Prada opened his first store in 1913 in the heart of Milan in the fashionable galleria, initially supplying luxury luggage to the aristocracy, and has changed very little since the company began. Miuccia Prada, his granddaughter took over the company in the 1970’s, incorporating fashion into the mix whose strategy was to continue in her grandfathers footsteps and produce high quality products regardless of current trends, and its working.

The ‘Made in Italy’ brand through the slow movement is determined to maintain and protect quality over quantity to manufacture beautiful things, rejecting the Anglo American idea that faster is better.     

The power and fascination with Italy is the extraordinary art, architecture and design coupled with tradition. Italy has not yet embraced the concept of the mall or supermarket in the city centre, out of town is where you’ll find them. Italians actively protect their unique trades and traditions, choice and quality are at stake. Excellence in everything they sell is the key to Milan’s success. Instead, they have started their own invasion by exporting excellence, luxury and handmade products to the world with name brands like Gucci, La Perla and Prada who continue to nurture a unique client customer relationship which ultimately encourages loyalty, with a determination to spread the slow shopping idea around the world to enhance your shopping experience and make it a truly enjoyable one.

Italian cities refuse be scarred by the blandness of modern high street stores invading most western cities. Just as the slow food movement has captured the imagination of a world frustrated with cardboard food, perhaps the slow shopping movement with more independent business will find a following else where in a world becoming increasingly frustrated with surly shop assistants and homogenised clothing, shoes, bags and furniture.