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New Zealand - North Island

by Lori Tenny

Most of New Zealand’s 3.6 million people reside on the mellow green North Island, the region that also has the strongest Maori presence.

Auckland, the largest urban area in the country, packs a wallop of cosmopolitan flavour, cultural appeal, scenic beauty and outdoor lures. Sparkling harbours, 60 volcanoes (no worries, the last one erupted 200 years ago), two mountain ranges, dozens of offshore islands and thousands of hectares of green space coexist with art galleries, museums, performing arts, cafes, trendy restaurants, a healthy nightlife scene, Victorian architecture, great shopping, and a rich Maori, Polynesian, Asian and European presence.

The inviting Auckland waterfront has witnessed a huge revival in the past decade thanks to Auckland’s international yachting events. Thousands of boats ply the waters during the summer months, hence the sobriquet: City of Sails.

Aside from cafes, restaurants and bars, there are yachts and sailboats galore — a perfect opportunity to hitch a ride or book a dinner sail. Or even paddle a kayak around the harbour and check out the skyline.

The best view is from atop the 328-metre-high Sky Tower entertainment complex. Visit the casino if you’re feeling lucky and stay for dinner with a view at the revolving Orbit restaurant. Head to Auckland Museum for a superb overview of Maori culture and traditional dance performances, Auckland Art Gallery for a dose of New Zealand, Pacific and British works, the surrounding mountains for tramping, and Waiheke Island for striking beaches and award-winning red wines.

Northland, a region at the top of the island, is readily explored via the Twin Coast Discovery Highway, which begins and ends in Auckland. The drive reveals one treasure after another: the Bay of Islands, a gorgeous azure seascape of tranquil isles; Whangarei, a pleasant city with pristine beaches nearby; Ninety-Mile Beach (the name says it all); Waipoua Kauri Forest, brimming with flora and fauna; and Hokianga and Kaipara, two historic harbours.

Kayaking, sailing, swimming with dolphins, scuba diving and game-fishing are all popular aquatic diversions in these transparent waters, though you might be equally at home simply kicking back on a peaceful blonde beach between dips.

On land, explore waterfalls and ancient forests on bush tracks, visit wineries, and take in the native culture while you're at it, as this area has a large concentration of Maori. Southeast of Auckland, the Coromandel Peninsula provides a more rugged coastal experience, and farther south, Rotorua is a hit-list spectacle for every visitor.

Known as Sulphur City, it could also pass for Surreal City; sitting atop a violent volcanic zone, its steamy, spurting geysers, bubbling, boiling mud and geothermal pools are nothing short of geologic oddities. This is perhaps the best place to get to know the Maori culture. Albeit touristy, the local Maoris stage concerts and dances, and whip up the traditional hangi meal, baked in an earth oven.

With Rotorua’s surrounding untamed landscape of gorgeous green forests, volcanoes and crater lakes burgeoning with huge rainbow trout, you can take your pick of simply standing in awe of the earth’s forces, stepping into a mineral pool, standing on the lip of a volcano, fishing or kayaking on the lakes, and tramping or mountain biking through the forests.

The east coast south of Rotorua, often overlooked by tourists, is well worth a side trip for the vibrant seaside city of Napier, an outdoor museum of Art Deco architecture constructed after the earthquake and fire of 1931.

The area also features several picturesque towns along Hawkes Bay, remote beaches, and numerous wineries producing excellent sauvignon blanc and chardonnay.

The country’s capital of Wellington, located on the southern tip of the island, serves up another shot of sophisticated New Zealand in a quirky harbour town atmosphere. This city begins with a lovely harbour and climbs up verdant hillsides in an array of timber houses, some of which cling impossibly to the steep slopes. More than 150 private cable cars dot the hillsides to transport residents between street level and their homes, though your best bet is to take the public cable car up the hills and zigzag your way down by foot through the inviting neighbourhoods and gardens.

The city is stocked with flavour, from the historic architecture of the homes and government buildings to cafes and smart restaurants to trendy shops and a good nightlife scene.

There are also dozens of performing arts options, including opera, ballet, symphony and theatre. The latest leading attraction is the national Te Papa Tongarewa Museum, a cutting-edge, waterfront facility that chronicles the land, people and culture of New Zealand with interactive flair.

Finish off the North Island with an easy excursion to Wairarapa, a scenic rural area packed with relaxing diversions: the upscale boutique wineries and creative cuisine of Martinborough; the Mt. Bruce Wildlife Center, where you can see the national Kiwi bird foraging for food; forest areas beckoning bush walkers; and a beautiful, rugged coastline.

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