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New Zealand - South Island

by Lori Tenny

In a land of magnificent alps, glaciers, fjords, mountain lakes, rivers and remarkable coastline, it’s no wonder outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers swoon over New Zealand’s South Island.

If you’re a thrill-seeker, by all means, make a beeline for Queenstown and its adrenalin-pumping pursuits, and if you have some boots to break in, head for the world-renowned tracks. But don’t miss the rest of South Island’s countless gems.

Many international visitors fly into Christchurch, but if you’re coming from North Island, take the three-hour Interisland Ferry ride from Wellington across Cook Strait, and watch it nose through the rocky entrance of the peaceful Marlborough Sounds, landing in the harbor town of Picton.

From here, venture off to interesting points on the northern tip of South Island, relatively undiscovered by the masses.

Explore the mystical Marlborough Sounds via boat or kayak and look out for dolphins, penguins, seals and water birds; tramp along the scenic Queen Charlotte Track; overnight at a romantic, rustic lodge in an idyllic cove; sip a prime chardonnay or sauvignon blanc at a stylish winery in Marlborough, the country’s largest grape-growing region, or head to Havelock, a provincial fishing village that claims to be the green shell mussel capital of the world. Follow the aroma to Mussel Boys restaurant and tuck into heaps of the delicacy simmered in everything from white wine and garlic to Guinness and bacon.

The waterfront resort town of Nelson, an hour from Havelock, boasts an eclectic arts and crafts scene and three surrounding national parks. Artists produce pottery, blown glass, woodwork, paintings and textiles in studios overlooking estuaries, mountains, farmland and beaches. A short excursion brings you to the stunning coastal wilderness region of Abel Tasman National Park where you can take bush and beach walks, kayak through the turquoise waters or stick your toes into the warm golden sand of an isolated beach. On South Island’s eastern shore, Kaikoura beckons marine lovers with options for whale watching and swimming with dolphins.

Farther down the east coast, the Garden City of Christchurch is about as English as you can get. The city features beautiful parks and gardens, Gothic architecture, and the River Avon, suitable for punting, as well as innovative theatre, art galleries, fine shopping and attractions such as Willowbank Wildlife Reserve and the International Antarctic Centre. Take a day trip to Ashburton for its crafts village, deer station and jet boating tours.

The Tranz Alpine train journey to Greymouth is a breathtaking means of reaching the west coast and its collection of awesome natural riches. Numerous glaciers salt the landscape of South Island, but Fox and Franz Joseph are the star draws. The magnitude of these glaciers, curiously carved into a valley near the sea, can be experienced on foot or via the seat of a plane or helicopter.

Nearby, Mount Cook National Park encompasses 700 square kilometers of soaring peaks and glaciers, including the majestic 3750-metre-high Mount Cook (New Zealand’s highest point). Several majestic tracks cut through the area.

Queenstown, an ideal base for exploring much of the southern part of the island, is a charming year-round resort town set on the shores of a beautiful lake below the looming peaks of the Remarkable Range.

Soak up the dazzling landscape, take the Skyline Gondola to the summit of Bob’s Peak, wander into the many boutique shops or test your mettle — Queenstown is New Zealand’s adventure and adrenalin capital, and the hairy activities include bungy jumping, heli-bungy jumping (yes, from a helicopter) and tandem parachuting. Tone it down a wee notch with activities such as river rafting, jet boating, fly-by-wire and four wheeling. In the winter months, add superb skiing to the lineup.

Fiordland National Park, located on the southwestern edge of South Island, is a vast, rugged wilderness encompassing magnificent fjords, glacial lakes, snowcapped peaks, a glacier-carved coastline and a bevy of interesting flora and fauna. Coastal Fiordland has several sounds, but Milford Sound tops the list.

There’s nothing quite like taking in the enormity of the region from a boat or kayak here, or getting a bird’s eye view from a flight-seeing plane.

Fiordland and the adjacent Mount Aspiring National Park also are strewn with some of New Zealand’s spectacular walks, including Routeburn, Hollyford and the famous Milford, touted as the 'finest walk in the world'. Milford Track takes four days to traverse, but it’s well worth the effort for the unforgettable views, rainforest, alpine meadows and waterfalls.

Round out your trip to South Island with a sojourn to Dunedin, a graceful west coast city of Scottish character, Victorian architecture and lovely gardens, and step just out of town to the flora-rich Otago Peninsula to spot royal albatross seabirds, fur seals, and little blue penguins.

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