The Oodnadatta Track
By Rod
Eime
 The
vast Australian landscape is strewn with four-wheel-drive
adventure opportunities. The majority offer true wilderness
experiences where you and your modern motor can vanish into
the scenery and leave the metropolitan crush behind.
The Oodnadatta Track is an accessible and engaging 850 kilometre
drive through the vast desert plains some 600 kilometres north
of Adelaide.
The generally well-maintained road is accessible in most
modern vehicles, although you probably wouldn't want to take
your sparkling new BMW. Any modern 4WD makes the journey effortless
and trouble free.
One of the most notable features of the Oodna' Track is that
it follows the path of the old Ghan Railway, making the journey
one of continual discovery as you explore the old rail sidings,
ruins and townships that once thrived on the railway but now,
if they're still there, depend mainly on you, the passer-thru
(Note: Since the author completed his journey along
the Oodnadatta Track, The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail
was completed in a joint SA Government tourism initiative).
Work on the original Ghan Railway began in 1878, following
the then existing Overland Telegraph line. The plan, of course,
was to build a railway to Darwin. In its first funding crunch,
the railway stalled at Oodnadatta and it wasn't until 1929
that the line to Alice Springs was completed - and there it
stalled again until now.
 The
track also passes along the uppermost edge of the Woomera
rocket range (prohibited area) and the lowermost border of
the Lake Eyre National Park, the latter making an interesting
diversion, especially on the rare occasions when the lake
is filled.
Travelling north, the Track begins at the old railhead of
Maree, which also marks the beginning of the Birdsville Track…
but that's another story!
Once home to the famous Afghan cameleers, Maree bears all
the hallmarks of a town that was. Formerly a bustling centre
of outback commerce located at the crossroad of major overland
trade routes, Maree has been reduced to a quaint outpost for
passing travellers and cattle trucks. All around lays the
evidence of past times.
Journey west along the wide, graded track and you pass the
noteworthy points of Curdimurka Siding, Coward Springs, Blanches
Cup (mound spring) and Beresford Bore, complete with adjacent
rocket tracking emplacements, before lobbing at the smallest
town in Australia - William Creek. Campers can stay overnight
at Coward Springs, or if you hanker for a bed, hang on 'till
William Creek.
 Just
like most every other hamlet along the Track, William Creek
tells the familiar story of a railway town turned to zilch.
200 kms west of Maree, the famous pub is now its only current
claim to fame.
Sitting at the bar, you'd think every outback traveller that
ever was had been here for a beer or two. And parked outside
you're more likely to see several Cessnas than a string of
road trains.
William Creek is also the popular and logical base camp for
those wanting to spend more time exploring the vast expanses
of the Lake Eyre region. You can even charter a joy flight
from the bar.
The next 200 km leg will take you to the namesake town of
Oodnadatta which served as a railhead from 1891 until 1929.
With a population of just over 200, it is still a proper town
with most services.
ou won't miss the Pink Roadhouse which serves as a busy focal
point for travellers, offering food, accommodation and advice.
The town is the springboard for visitors to the Simpson Desert
and Witjira National Park and you can buy the required Parks
Pass from the roadhouse.
 The
current Track finishes at Marla, another 200 kilometres further west,
and out on the Stuart Highway proper. Diehard enthusiasts used to
prefer the 'old' track out via Granite Downs. This section is no longer
maintained and passes through a pastoral lease where access is actively
discouraged.
If your offroad bug is still itching, you can head north
past the Simpson Desert, via Dalhousie and Mount Dare, to
Alice Springs. Although it is possible to make Oodna' to Alice
in one hectic day, campers can relax at Dalhousie Springs
while bunkers can stretch out at Mount Dare.
Note: Since the author completed his journey along
the Oodnadatta Track, The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail
was completed in a joint SA Government tourism initiative.
Beginning at Port Augusta, the trail stretches 1330 kilometres
to Alice Springs and includes some 600 kilometres of the Oodnadatta
Track itself. The new trail incorporates 20 interpretive signs
built onto replica railway trolleys. Call 1300 655 276 for
details.
Outback Driving
 Don't
take safety for granted when driving in the Outback.
Always carry spares and enough food and water for a
week in case of breakdown. A CB radio is a must and
a GPS is useful.
Always check road conditions with locals and fellow
travellers to get best information. But beware, some
hoteliers have been known to exaggerate travelling times
and road perils in order to fill empty beds.
The author's experience is National Parks staff are
best informed, especially when it comes to alternative
routes.
Most enjoyable time to travel is during winter when
days are cool, but rain can make outback travel a real
ordeal. Summer gets really hot with temperatures up
to 45°C possible.
Must See:
- Curdimuka Siding and Lake Eyre South
- Mound Springs
- Beresford Bore Rail Siding Ruins
- William Creek Pub
- Giles Memorial and Old Peake Telegraph Station
- Pink Roadhouse (Oodnadatta)
Recommended Reading:
-
Gregory's 4WD Escapes. Detailed Route Instructions.
-
NRMA's South Australia Holiday Guide. Brief, but
to-the-point.
-
SA Tourism's 'Secrets -The Unwinding Roads'. Colourful.
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Links:
Southaustralia.com
(search for: Oodnadatta)
NRMA.com.au
(search for: Oodnadatta)
Exploreoz.com
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