The Orient Express

by Brooke Comer

Imagine yourself travelling the world by train in the painstakingly restored style and luxury of the 1920s. Sumptuous carriages, exquisite cuisine and attentive personal service make the Orient Express the perfect setting for any celebration or special holiday.

Travel through Britain, Europe, the Far East or Australia and enjoy the plush, richly decorated interiors that recall a bygone age of luxury travel, and ensure an atmosphere of indulgent relaxation.

Contributor Brooke Comer had the holiday of a lifetime recently, when she travelled through Southeast Asia on the Orient Express, the most sumptuous, luxurious way to see the world by train — and, in this case, boat too.

Combining two Orient Express journeys, she boarded the train in Singapore and travelled north for three days through the tropical jungles, mountains and villages of Malaysia and Thailand, to Bangkok.

Then she flew to Myanmar (formerly Burma) to board the equally opulent Orient Express Cruise liner — The Road to Mandalay — which glided down the Irrawaddy River past ancient temples and villages that have been untouched for centuries.

Following is a personal account of her journey:

Singapore — Bangkok

I flew into Singapore, and was immediately enchanted by the city's intriguing blend of cosmopolitan skyscrapers and surprising tranquillity. Rare orchids bloom in parks just steps from the busy downtown, while Singapore's cultural diversity is evident in neighbourhoods like Little India and Chinatown, where I felt like I was in another country entirely.

I also found remnants of "old" Singapore still visible in the colonial architecture tucked away throughout the city, including the famous Raffles Hotel by the ocean, and the regimented lines of palm trees by the water.

Stepping out of the bright sun and entering the relative calm of the Singapore train station, I headed toward the Orient Express, waiting regally on the platform, with its signature 1920s Pullman cars in gleaming brown and cream.

I settled into my State Compartment, featuring a full sofa and pull-out bed — a more spacious alternative to the standard Pullman compartment — and hoped the three-day journey would go by slowly enough for me to properly indulge in my opulent surroundings.

Brass and frosted glass light fixtures gave the inlaid Italian wood panes in my compartment a comfortingly warm glow, and I even had a personal butler to ply me with fresh fruit and tea, or to stitch loose buttons, if necessary.

As we hurtled through Malaysia’s dense green rainforests, we passed dozens of small villages, whose children ran from their mud and wattle huts to shriek and wave at us in excitement.

These picturesque rural scenes suddenly gave way to modern civilisation when we stopped at Penang Island to take the ferry across the strait of Malacca in the Andaman Sea to George Town, a busy waterfront town with elegant colonial buildings painted a pristine white, alongside humble storefronts.

Here we stopped to take a sightseeing tour on bicycle rickshaws that rattled through the narrow, paved streets past colourful shops selling ice cream, medical herbs, paper lanterns and coolie hats. Vendors hawking fried rice and fish beckoned to us from under striped umbrellas.

Back on the train, I dressed and joined my fellow train travellers for dinner, which began with cocktails in the sumptuous lounge — all polished brass and plush, hand-embroidered upholstery — then continued with a gourmet four-course meal served in five-star style.

Moving gradually farther north, we began to see teak and bamboo forests swaddling imposing mountains dotted with cave mouths, ragged as sharp teeth. We passed countless small villages and fields full of water buffalo.

Once, as we passed a primary school, its open windows suddenly filled with smiling children waving to us. Our next stop, near the Thai-Burmese border at the River Kwai, brought us to the famous bridge built by prisoners of war, many of whom were British soldiers who died in the course of their work, and our tour included a sombre visit to the War Cemetery.

Upon arrival in bustling Bangkok, I fell in love with the city instantly. The Chao Phraya River reminded me of Cairo's Nile, with slender gold and red boats with curled prows, ferries and barges adrift. We saw the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which was gold rather than green, and then took the city's wonderful (clean, safe, fast) monorail system to Pat Pong, the nightlife district, where clubs and cafes are open until dawn.

The city streets were a mixture of handicraft stores, foot massage parlours, and fabric shops, where you could point to a designer dress in a magazine, and have it custom tailored from a stunning selection of silks — for very little money. The Night Market was a wonderful place to buy anything from a shot of snake blood (I did not partake), to jewellery, to teak and inlaid mother of pearl platform shoes.

Thanks to the efficient Orient Express staff who facilitated our smooth transition from airport to hotel to airport again, we didn't lose our luggage or ourselves, and, despite our whirlwind weekend in Bangkok, we arrived in Burma's capital of Yangon (formerly Rangoon) refreshed and ready for the next phase of our adventure.

Mandalay — Yangon

From Yangon, it was just a quick hop to Mandalay. There, the sleek white river cruiser waited for us on the Irrawaddy River (the main highway through Burma, running some 1100 miles down from the Eastern Himalayas to a delta on the Bay of Bengal).

We were deposited in a thick bamboo forest and followed a path that led to the wide, green river, where our 125-berth floating hotel awaited. My new State Compartment quarters were as lovely as those on the train, and indeed the ship matched the train in all aspects of luxury, from the tastefully appointed rooms, to the gourmet meals. Best of all, though, was the large pool on deck where I could take refreshing dips and soak up the sun as we floated past green hillsides dotted with Buddhist temples, their gold-domed pagodas glowing in the afternoon light so wonderfully unique to this region.

Each day, we rose early and enjoyed the complimentary coffee and tea served in our quarters, then headed to upper deck dining room for the elaborate breakfast buffet that included fresh local mangos. At one stop along the way in Shwe Kyet Yet, we watched an offering of alms at the Shwe Kyet Yet School, a monastery for young Buddhist monks, some as young as five and six years old, before driving on through the spectacular Sagaing Hills, thick with lush foliage, with gold tipped pagodas peeking through the greenery.

We then stopped at the Zayar Theingi Nunnery, where equally young girls with shaved heads and pink robes, who otherwise would not learn to read and write, are sent to study, although they do not command the same religious reverence as their male counterparts.

In Bagan, we stopped at the Nyaung Oo local market, where we could buy yards of silk for just two to three pounds sterling, and for about a pound, a seamstress would sew it into a longjis (long wrap-around skirt). Later, we visited a lacquer market — the region is famous for its hand-made lacquerware — and then climbed the steep steps of the Sunset Pagoda for one of the best views in Myanmar, as the orange sun slowly sinks behind the temple ruins.

It was a powerful and fitting finale to one of the most lavish, beautiful and fascinating journeys of my travel career.

For Flights and special deals plus more info on the Orient Express - click here for the Travel Homepage.

International Orient Express lines

Britain
A wide choice of day excursions and weekend breaks around Britain are available. Aboard the meticulously restored umber and cream British Pullman carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, passengers can enjoy fine wines and food freshly prepared by French chefs as Britain's countryside gently unfolds outside the window.

Europe
For something a little farther afield, try a classic Orient-Express journey through Europe. Regular schedules include special departures to some of Europe's most fascinating cities. Go from London to the historic waterworld of Venice, incorporating a stop in Paris and a breathtakingly scenic journey across the Alps.

Other options include a six-day journey from Paris to Istanbul, stopping at Budapest. Alternatively, travel from Romania's fascinating capital, Bucharest, on a 3-day journey back through Eastern Europe to finally arrive in Paris. Other journeys take in Prague, or even glamorous Monte Carlo on the Mediterranean coast.

Far East
The Eastern & Oriental Express offers the ultimate vantage point from which to explore the Far East. The style and splendour of the E&O, combined with the adventure of a journey to the fascinating cities of Asia, provide a unique travel experience.

Trips taking in the island city-state of Singapore, the vivid floating markets of Thailand and Malaysia's beautiful countryside, transport you through fairytale scenery of ancient palaces, villages, sculpted paddy fields and impenetrable forests (To read a personal account of this journey, see above).

Road to Mandalay Cruise
The Orient Express also links up with the Road to Mandalay deluxe river cruise ship to offer scenic journeys through the dramatic landscapes of ancient Burma. Cruise through Myanmar (formerly Burma), a land of serene and unspoilt beauty.

Taking the historic trade-route of the Irrawaddy River, your cruise sets off on this magnificent journey from either bustlingly Mandalay or the long-abandoned city of Bagan, with its spectacular temples set in lush green forest. The cruise will take you past some of Myanmar's most spectacular sights, including ancient ruins, towering cliffs, gorges and stunning scenery.

The Road to Mandalay combines the luxurious atmosphere of the Orient Express with a distinctly Asian tradition, offering air-conditioned cabins, a top-class restaurant serving a range of inventive cuisine, a bar and even a swimming pool.

Australia
The Great South Pacific Express is the perfect supplement to a longer holiday in Australia. A quintessentially Antipodean train, its every detail has been sourced from Australia's railway heritage: solid red cedar wood walls, the finest myrtle burl panels and delicate stained-glass clerestory roofs combine to make the train the most luxurious hotel on wheels in the Southern Hemisphere.

The trip will take you on a 16-night journey that includes visits to the Daintree Rainforest and the magnificent Great Barrier Reef, as well as travelling down the spectacular Kuranda Mountain Railway.

For Flights and special deals plus more info on the Orient Express - click here for the Travel Homepage.

The Orient Express offers the holiday of a lifetime in some of the most beautiful and exotic locations in the world. Whether you are taking a journey through England's peaceful countryside, or floating downstream on the Road to Mandalay luxury river cruiser, you will be guaranteed memories to last a lifetime.