Rome : Sistine Chapel

Words & photos by Allison O'Donoghue

“Silenzo, silenzo, no photo, no photo!” shout the Vatican guards. Who are they kidding? Guesstimate head count 200 to 300 squeeze into the relatively small space of the Sistine Chapel, and more pour in by the minute. The throngs crane their necks, gawk, gawp and gaze intently at the grandiosity of Michelangelo’ genius, manifested in all its power and glory of that ceiling. So much so, people faint, wail and fling themselves in ecstasy, enraptured, caught up in the moment, thrashing into others squashed in like sardines. Those none too impressed with these antics and not caught up in the hysteria, push back or elbow them out of the way, who in turn scream louder, all reminiscent of the punk rock concerts I frequented in the 1980's.

“Silenzo, Silenzo, no photo no photo” repeated like a mantra, admittedly, the noise is deafening, like a thousand chickens cackling all at once, but impossible to enforce. I obeyed the first order, silence, but defied the second and start secretly taking photos, along with everyone else. After all, I didn't come all this way for nothing! Some how, mingled in with the masses, I get tapped on the shoulder by a security guard, “no photo, no photo,” he says in all seriousness. How did that happen? How come I’m singled out? Surely they should attend to the fainting, flailing hysterical ones rather than me! However annoyed I am, I am deeply grateful he didn't take my camera. Unlike others, I was careful not to use my flash. I sulk for about five seconds then spot a gap on the crowded pew lining the entire wall of the chapel. I quickly squeeze in, determined to study the ceiling, and drink it all in while waiting for rapture to overtake me. It doesn't. I sat for what seemed like ages. Still waiting, still watching, staring up and around as the endless drama unfolds around me, yet the ecstasy never takes hold.

Regardless of your religious beliefs, visiting the Vatican City is a must. A State within a State perched on Vatican Hill situated on the right bank of the Tiber River, under the sovereignty of the Pope, head of the Catholic Church. It stretches 44 square hectares and has over 2000 inhabitants with its own post office, bank and supermarkets. The State was enacted on February 11th, 1929 after a Treaty between the Holy See and the Italian State was drawn up. This Treaty established the borders of the Vatican and instantly resolved centuries of problems associated with the Vatican, other countries and surrounding Italian suburbs. The border coincides with the medieval walls built around the Piazza San Pietro joining the extremities of Bernini’s colonnade.

However, the Vatican has been the home of various Pope(s) since 1311 when the Pope's court returned to Rome after decades of exile in Avignon, France. Before that, the Pope resided in Lateran.

Pilgrims beat a path to the centre of Christendom all year round not just because it's the home of the Pope but also the presence of the Vicar of Christ and tomb of St Peter.  Constantine, according to tradition, commissioned the Basilica over St Peter's tomb way back in 319 AD.

Scholars, historians and the secular, visit the library, galleries and museums full to the brim with ancient treasures from all over the world, while architectural students visit for inspiration. Gian Lorenzo Bernini worked exceedingly hard and unpaid, for the love of God, from 1656 to 1667 to realise his masterpiece the Piazza S Pietro. The elliptical shape has two side colonnades covered by a gallery, upon which stand 140 statutes of the Saints. If you find a certain position, all the columns merge as one. Unbelievable. I would not have believed it had I not seen it with my own eyes. Bernini's precision was exact, nothing short of miraculous.

Getting to the Sistine Chapel is an ordeal; you run the gauntlet of corridors large and small with signs and arrows showing the way, directing you to the main attraction. If you want to stop and study the ancient map frescoes, some of them by the great explorers Marco Polo and Christopher Columbus that line the walls, forget it, the crowd shuffles monotonously towards the chapel pushing you along with the constant surge of movement. Apparently, it is relatively empty early in the morning, so that would be your best bet to actually stop and have a good look at these riches lining the walls, not to mention the stunning ceilings. Its not only the Sistine ceiling that is ornately decorated, it is all the ceilings and walls created by various artists throughout the ages all vying to outdo each other, until Michelangelo blew them out of the water.

The corridors get smaller and smaller as you move along until you come to a tiny centuries old stairwell, with worn steps that are dangerously slippery, so make sure you have non slip foot wear.

At last the chapel looms, and a wall of sound unfamiliar to my ears plus the never-ending “silenzo silenzo, no photo, no photo” greets me as I finally walk into the chapel and automatically look up. We shuffle in and push the already crowded space back toward the exit whether they like it or not. Maybe there could be crowd control and limit the number of people allowed in at one time, a concept lost on the Italians. I kept thinking what if there is a fire? There are no windows to jump out of and the crush to the exit would be devastating. I quickly put that thought out of my mind and concentrate with extreme focus on the ceiling. I search for the iconic picture that many a movie company has used as a logo and the Italians use for every thing. I find it and start clicking away. I manage to get a few more shots in before that tap on the shoulder.

The Sistine Chapel, named after its founder Pope Sixtus IV was finally completed in the 16th century and has served as the chamber where the College of Cardinals gather to elect the new pope.

Contrary to popular belief, Michelangelo did not paint flat on his back as myth would have it, but painted the ceiling standing up craning backwards and paid the price with permanent back and neck pain plus eye strain. The Last Judgement fills the altar wall with the figure of Christ as judge who sits in the upper centre surrounded by saints and accompanied by Mary. The figure of a flayed human with skin hanging is apparently that of Michelangelo himself. He painted himself in this fashion to symbolically depict heaven and hell.

It was not only Michelangelo who contributed to the walls and ceiling of the Sistine Chapel but also great artists such as Perugino, Botticelli, Roselli, Signorelli, Pinturicchio, Ghirlandaio and della Gatta, who eventually completed the masterpiece in 1483. Artists have been working on the Sistine Chapel for centuries, the frescoes on the sidewalls predate Michelangelo’s ceiling. On the right depict scenes of the life of Moses and on the left scenes of the life of Christ.

I meander back from whence I came, slowly gazing out at the grounds and beautiful gardens, bathed in soft light. I stop to check out the museums, which is included in the price, which are less crowded and surprisingly suffused in cathedral silence. The museums hold amazing treasures from Egyptian to Iranian to name a few artefacts from other countries, but that’s another story.

Although I was never over ought with rapture, the experience of the Sistine Chapel was wondrous and sublimely beautiful. I recommend seeing it!