Surprises Galore In Sydney

By David Ellis with John Rozentals

Up until the 2000 Olympics — and with them the wholesale redevelopment of a swathe of inner-western Sydney from antiquated industrial eyesores to pleasant parklands, sporting fields and modern residential areas — even very few locals knew of the Newington Armory that was within their midst.

And fewer still realised its importance over more than a century. “It was quite a well kept secret,” said Ian Macdonald, during one of his regular rail tours around the historic precinct.

That secrecy was just as well, because what was there would have been a very attractive target for an enemy, especially during World War Two when British, American and Australian navies all kept significant arsenals there.

The armory’s story began in 1882 when the Government resumed nearly 90 hectares of largely mudflats and mangroves on the southern side of the Parramatta River, between Silverwater and Homebush Bay.

Stone seawalls, docks and numerous fortified buildings were constructed, as well as a network of narrow-gauge rail lines that linked various parts of Sydney’s important new explosives magazine.

In 1921, management of the site was handed to the Royal Australian Navy and, at its peak, grew to nearly 260 hectares from the river to Parramatta Road.

Decades later a large part became the site of the 2000 Olympics’ athletes village (now the suburb of Newington,) with the rest becoming parkland and remaining a significant historic site under management of the Sydney Olympic Park Authority.

Many of the historic old buildings have been converted into artists’ spaces and a large gallery. One has become a cinema, another an educational centre focusing on the wetlands’ birdlife, and there are now also a waterfront restaurant, bike-hire facilities, a riverside stage and backpacker-style accommodation.

And the fascinating network of old rail lines that are something of a passion for Ian Macdonald, a steam-buff and engine-driver still employed for some of his time by NSW State Rail.

Ian’s converted one of the trains originally used for carting explosives to carry passengers on his armory experience on the first and third Sundays of every month.

With guide Lorraine Watson delivering a commentary on the history of the armory — and a tour of a shed-full of largely (now deactivated) WW2 torpedos, missiles and other assorted explosive devices — it’s a fascinating and entertaining way to spend a couple of hours.

The cost of the Heritage Railway Discovery Tour is $15 per adult ($12 concession, $7.50 children, under fives free if seated on an adult’s lap). Hours of departure vary according to time of year.

For more information call (02) 9714 7888, email info@sydneyolympicpark.com.au or visit www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au.

FIVE OTHER THINGS TO DO AT NEWINGTON ARMORY

EAT

There’s a deal of choice here, starting with a picnic on one of the extensive grassed areas, or a bbq in a sheltered eating area along the waterfront with free gas-fired barbecues. The Armory Wharf Café has a canteen for quick snacks, and a more formal licensed restaurant right on the edge of the Parramatta River. (www.armorywharfcafe.com)

ART

The Armory Gallery occupies the largest of the old buildings and is one of Sydney’s largest public exhibition spaces. The current exhibition open every weekend to 20 June, is Memory Flows: Rivers, Creeks and the Great Artesian Basin, an interdisciplinary collaboration by artists sharing a common concern for the environment.

The Armory’s buildings are also home to a range of resident artists and craftspeople, who regularly open their spaces to the public for Meet the Artists events.

Several works from Bondi’s famous Sculpture by the Sea have been created at the Armory and are on display there until the end of the year. (www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au)

WALK/CYCLE

The Armory offers a network of trails taking in historical artefacts and buildings, wetlands, bush and riverfront. Cycle hire is available.

MOVIES

Free at The Armory Theatre. Cinewest Cinémathèque is holding its third annual Masters of Cinema series, this year featuring the work of Japan’s Akira Kurasawa and Italy’s Federico Fellini. Screenings are from 2–4pm on the last Sunday of the month. (www.sydneyolympicpark.com.au or www.cinewest.org.au)

SEGWAY

Learn to ride one of those two-wheeled, electric-powered things that look impossible, but which we’re assured are quite easy. Rent one for a trial run or join a Segway discovery tour of the Armory site. More advanced Segway adventures are also available.  (www.segwaytours.com.au)