Te Wairoa, the Buried Village
By Richard Moore
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One of the many submerged
huts
in the buried village of Te Wairoa
(images courtesy of TikiTouring.co.nz)
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On 31 May 1886 a tourist party to the Pink and White Terraces,
one of New Zealand's first vistor attractions, saw a ghostly
canoe crossing the waters of Lake Rotomahana near Rotorua.
The tourists were amazed at the sight on the phantom canoe,
an old-style Maori waka, but the local Maoris were worried
as it meant something terrible was about to happen.
Only 10 days later nearby Mt Tarawera exploded in a five-hour
display of awesome power that split the mountain and covered
more than 1500 square kilometres in lava, mud and volcanic
ash. At least 153 died as three Maori villages were buried.
The famed Pink and White Terraces were obliterated and the
immediate area was changed forever.
Today, tourists to Rotorua in New Zealand's North Island
can visit Te Wairoa, one of the villages destroyed by the
Tarawera eruption.
The village is an easy 15-minute drive out of the city on
a road that takes you past the picturesque Blue and Green
Lakes, which are worth stopping by for a time-out from more
touristy things.
Te Wairoa is a peaceful spot, yet one in which there is an
underlying murmur of tragedy. Around its green lawns and treed
areas are graphic reminders of what can happen when Nature
vents its fury.
There are guides at the Buried Village who will take you
through its fascinating museum, which features a lot of relics
from the tragedy - including a sewing machine found jammed
into tree branches. Mixed with those are the photos and stories
of some of the victims and personalities of the village.
There is a small whare (house) that shows you just how deep
the volcanic ash was that smothered life in the village, and
a blacksmith's home and forge, also half-submerged.
Nearby is the house of Tuhoto Ariki, a Maori priest or tohunga,
who warned of impending disaster after hearing of the ghostly
canoe.
The 104-year-old Ariki survived the eruption, but was buried
in his house for four days before being rescued. He could
have been freed much earlier but apparently there was a bit
of discussion as to whether he foresaw - or caused - the eruption!
One of the most amazing things at Te Wairoa is a stand of
100-year-old poplar trees that seem to have grown in perfect
lines. I guess it really isn't a surprise - as they were originally
fence posts!
For those with a bit of energy there is a hike you can make
to get to the 30-metre Wairere Falls or, if you feel more
like relaxing by another pretty waterway then stop at a very
pleasant pool in the village itself and contemplate life as
you watch some very tempting wild Rainbow Trout.
At the end of your tour around Te Wairoa you can get yourself
food and drinks at the Buried Village's café. There's
also a playground for the kids.
Te Wairoa, or the Buried Village, is a remarkable place to
visit and makes you realise that living in a volcanic region
is not always about great scenery and tourist attractions,
but about life and sudden death as well.
Links:
The
Buried Village
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